So you have "lived deep" and extracted all the sweetness out of life, and you have had your last meal.
But, what food and drink would you like people to remember you by? What wafting smell would have the power to conjure you up from the grave, to draw you back down through the portals of heaven, to tempt you back onto this lovely balls-up of a planet?
Were you the Queen of buttered, slightly crisp and salty asparagus? Were you the King of French Cognac? Were you the Polish Prince of English wild forest mushrooms? Were you enslaved to Arabica? Were you an advocate for English cheese? Did you murder for a drink? Were you an innocent victim of chocolate? And, did you see the world in a grain of rice and eternity in a glowing coal of truffle?
On All Hallows, on November 2, in an act meant to both evoke and invoke the dead, Mexicans put up altars and lay out the favourite food and drink of those that they loved, respected or just plain put up with. Traditionally, Mexicans are both comforted and comfortable in the company of their dead.
Why not try setting up a homemade British altar of your own; fumigate the demons of Halloween with a little Mexican magic.
Push two tables together and cover them with sheets of orange, blue, white or purple crepe and ribbons cut out into patterns of the same material. Decorate the surfaces with lots of Marigolds and then place photos of your dear ones on the table. Carefully lay out the food and drink they liked together with few of their possessions: those tortoiseshell glasses, the hand illustrated book of German aphorisms, the teddy bear, a handful of the garden.
Then, before you go to bed, scatter a trail of bright yellow petals right up to the window ledge. Leave the window slightly ajar. Light the candles on the altar. Think of your "muertito" and go to bed. If you are lucky they will come back briefly and accompany you once more.
In the morning have a nibble or a sip from the food and drink on the altar. You will find, as many Mexicans have repeatedly pointed out to me, that the food and drink have lost a little of their flavour. This is the positive proof, to them, that the essence of the food has been consumed.
When I die, on the altar next to my picture, I want a bowl of cold beetroot borsht with sour cream and a taco or two made with cuitlacoche and melted Oaxaca cheese. And don't forget the tequilla.
Discussing the subject at home prompted my 14-year-old daughter to tell us she would have a Galaxy chocolate bar, battered stuffed chillies with cheese and a glass of cold milk. What food and drink would you like people to remember you by?
To: Mr & Mrs J. Hall, Box 49 Eikenhof (TVL) Johannesburg Afrique du Sud. 28.3.76 Dear John and Nola, Today a week ago we were still in New Delhi with Eve and Tony and the boys and the whole thing looks like a dream. We arrived on the 28.2 in New Delhi and were happy to see the whole family fit and in good health. The boys have grown very much, Phil is just about the size of Tony and the twins are above average. We stayed untill the 22nd March, as our visa ran out and we did not want to go through all the ceremony of asking for an extension. It also got hotter and I don't know how I would have supported the heat. The extra week would also have passed, so we decided not to go to all the trouble with the authorities and leave on the 22nd. I cannot tell you how happy we have been to see such a lovely family, so happy and united. It is rare to experience sucha thing and we have both all the reasons to be proud of them (when I say goth I mean you and us ). There is su
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