16.11.09

Tolworth Broadway; not quite the Champs Elysees



Though we are on the edge of the City and technically in Surrey, our high street is a London artery through which cars flow swiftly. There is a central railing to stop people dashing across and possibly being run over. Families eat English breakfasts on Sunday mornings in the Cafes. There is a secret Karaoke den for the Koreans. Dealers drift about late at night - when we have no business to be there. We have our own radio station and a pool hall. There are charity shops and ironmongers, flower shops and supermarkets. There is a giant office block for the civil service, flyovers and a huge roundabout with tatty underpasses that Tesco wants to beautify. The area has great potential.

The truth is, though they may hang baskets of flowers along the pavements, Tolworth Broadway can sometimes be quite depressing at times and for the moment we tend to avoid it. This is a shame because the buildings are Surbiton style 1930s. We are very multicultural, there is a huge variety, we are surrounded by green and trees, we have parks and the Hogsmill river. I think the problem is the A3 and all the cars, but there is very little we can do about that. And anyway, that's part of the essence of Tolworth.  

Routemaster graveyard
Go cart track
Post Office
StationCycle shop
Cafés
Coffee specialists
Charity shops
Police station
Newsagents
Antiques shops
Boutiques
Motorbike shop
Funeral parlours
Fireplaces
Beds
Fish and chips shops
Off Licenses
Flower shops
Tile shops
Sri Lankan restaurants
Indian restaurants
Punjabi restaurant
Estate agents
Solicitors
Insurance brokers
Pubs
Parks
Bus stops
Schools
Churches
Betting shops
Kitchen shops
Dentists
Opticians
Supermarkets
Central heating shops
Window shops
Vietnamese restaurant
Green grocers
Greek restaurant
Paint shop
Pet shop
Nursery
Chemists
East European shop
Tuition
Dry cleaners
Banks
Karaoke den
Value shops
Petrol station
Barbers
Gardeners
Travel Agencies
Kebab shops
Sandwich shops
Manicurists
Garage
Launderette
Drycleaners
Computer repair
Hardware shops
Chinese medicine shop
Pizza takeaways
Fried chicken takeaway
Book shop
Jewellers
Library
Beauty salon
Photographer
Stationer
Bar
Card shop
Indian street food
Sri Lankan shop
Indian shop
Green grocers
Butchers (closed)
Radio station
Pool Hall
Nepalese restaurant
Recruitment agency
School uniform shop
Indian supermarkets
Shoe shop
Tools
Film rentals
Offices
Tower block
Tattooists
Thai restaurant
Chartered accountants
Italian restaurants
Hotels
Bed and breakfasts
Ministry of Defence Land
Bowling Alley
Hospital
A River
Fields
Leisure center
Used car dealers
Taxis
Bus station
Builder's yard
Tennis courts
Basketball court
Allotments
Community centre

7.11.09

I am a fan of Peter Broderick



I haven't admired a songwriter for a long time, as much as I admire Peter Broderick


Softly freezing
Not at home
And it's alright
Below it
With the notes in my Ears
Diverge
Games
Games again
Esbern Snares Glade
Maps

2.11.09

Live, because you will die.

There are many contrasting approaches to the arrangement of funerals, from the relgious to the secular. But after five deaths and four funerals over the last two years, it seems to me that the humanist way of death is the most salutary.

This is because it accepts one simple truth. Human life is constructed like a story. It has a beginning, high points, low points and then ends – definitively.

The humanist way of death recognises the fact that you will die and that when you do, that will be the story of you. From the viewpoint of a our human, third person narrative, isn't the idea of heaven a little irritating? A life, like a good book, should never end in: " ... to be continued." Life only really makes sense as biography.
In contrast, religious funerals, where a stranger usually officiates and witters on about heaven, often fail to commemorate a life well lived properly. Religious funerals can be a whimpering anti-climax.

When Uncle Heini died this month at the age of 99 there was a lot to celebrate about his life. He survived two world wars honourably. Heini was flamboyant and kind. In his 80s he was still travelling from Machu Picchu to China. He even went climbing in the Himalayas at the age of 85. Heini was a well-known actor and a famous clown in the Munich theatre.

But his funeral was completely out of keeping with this, and I blame religion and its obsession with the afterlife for that. It put a damper on an occasion that should have been far more representative of who he really was. The crematorium orchestra played Albinoni and Bach, an actress read out a poem, the theatre administrator gave a thoughtful speech, and then a Lutheran pastor stood up with a wan smile and gave her homily. It was full of religious platitudes. In half an hour Heini's divine reispass was stamped, his celestial ticket clipped. And that was it; curtains.

In contrast, the humanist funerals in our family were completely satisfying and eclectic. They looked backwards and allowed us to see the lives of our loved ones clearly. We did not need to look forwards towards some sort of puzzling postscript. Perhaps the last thing people want after a death, during the messy form of group therapy that is a funeral, is for some sanctimonious stranger to stand up and start talking about a the afterlife.

No one sang The Day Thou Gavest Lord is Ended at our humanist funerals, though there were moments of dignified silence, on the whole we made real fools of ourselves: we wept, we listened to Bheki Mseleku and danced to Baba Maal. We told stories, laughed, sang political anthems and "Dream a little Dream of me."
The point about funerals is that you are there to commemorate a life not indulge in metaphysical speculation.
I have heard many religious people say: "What is the point of life, if in the end it all comes to nothing?" But it is also valid to say that we live – and the very reason why we must live and try to fulfil our potential is precisely because we will die.

30.10.09

Waiting for Aeroflot




Unkindness to fellow travellers


 Memorandum
To:
  • MR. PULAT, Ministry of [Soviet] Civil Aviation
  • MR. ARDYMOV, Transit Manager
  • INTOURIST
From:


M.A. HALL, PASSENGER ON SU Z44 HELD IN TRANSIT SINCE 12/7/81

Date: 19/7/81

Subject: TREATMENT OF AEROFLOT TRANSIT PASSENGERS

              (TO BE READ WITH ATTACHED MEMO. OF 16/7/81)

Tonight, one full week after arriving at Moscow airport too late to catch a confirmed onward flight to Mogadishu, myself and six other passengers are finally die to be released from Sheremetyovo transit hotel to fly to our destination.

The missed connection was no fault of our own. Nothing was achieved in finding us an alternative flight within a reasonable time.

I regret to say that in the following three days since I sent my memorandum of the 16/7/81, I can record no improvement in the treatment of transit passengers, except some improvement s in the quality and variety - not the service - of meals.

Everything I wrote in the previous memo still applies. Here are some more examples, over the past three days of the attitudes and system operating in the modern airport and hotel of one of the worlds greatest capitals:

Mr Ardymov and his staff made no attempt to inform us of the outcome of his efforts to reroute us to Mogadishu via Frankfurt on Friday (yesterday). So on Friday morning two of us decided to investigate progress.

As we walked through the front doorway, the doorman shouted at us, and roughly ordered us not to go beyond the hotel steps. This was intolerable treatment of any guest, let alone people held for a week. Obviously he acted on orders.

Another passenger also being held for a week acquired a visa through his embassy. He was told yesterday at the hotel reception desk that this was "not a visa", and the clerk threatened to call the immigration police as he walked to the airport terminal.

A team from Zimbabwe were in transit after taking part in an International Junior Cycling championships in GDR. Before leaving Leipzig, knowing they would have to stop over in Moscow, they asked Aeroflot officials to organise short term visas. The Aeroflot official assured them this would be done on their arrival.

But when they arrived at Sheremetyevo they were subjected to the usual lengthy passport screening, and refused visas without explanation.

They became three day hostages!

[Here Dad, the editor, starts breaking all his own rules and a unleashes a flood of exclamation marks - a punctiation mark which he regarded as histrionic and unseemly.]

My (shared) room has not been cleaned once in a week. After five days we handed in our two small towels and asked for fresh ones. One hour later we asked again and were curtly told "Tomorrow, tomorrow." Thirty six hours later, still no towels.

Two cleaning women on Thursday came shouting into a crowded lobby, accusing two departing passengers of taking towels.  An argument followed and, and the two women joined the departing passengers to continue the altercation on the bus!

Within four days four transit passengers told me of the following losses:

1. A knife from a rucksack at the airport.
2. Nine roubles in the hotel.
3. A watch in the hotel.
4. A man's white embroidered jacket in the hotel.

The hotel is heavily staffed but the attitude and the system seem to be controlling rather than serving, helping or communicating with the guests. There are many signs of this, the meals system being the most blatent. Resources are so rationed out and so rigidly measured that guests have suffered delays and inconvenience, in rooms and dining hall.

The latest trick is to divert "all without visas and passports" to some (often locked) room on the 8th floor if they have any enquiry. This is not hotel keeping. It is Kafka!

In my week here I have had a reasonably proper, friendly hearing just three times. Once from Mr Pulat and twice from the ladies at the airport transit desk. One young lady was particularly helpful, and effective, in meeting one minor requirement. And she did not break any rules to be so.

From the memorandum of 16/7/81

[......]

Some of us are amazed that there is not more concern that there is not more concern among the Soviet authorities at the stain on the countrys reputation which is inevitably spread wide and deep around the world by such treatment. Even those of us who come here with nothing but goodwill towards the Soviet Union and its people are angry and somewhat embittered by our experience.

These are our specific complaints:

1. Despite a two hour delay in the Heathrow airport departure lounge, no Aeroflot representative came to explain the technical problem to passengers, not to collect and transmit information about the onward bookings from Moscow.

2.   After arriving at Moscow late at night, more than four hours delayed, we, as transit passengers with confirmed onward bookings, were kept hanging about for at least one hour while our passports were subjected to unnecessarily close scrutiny by immigration police, who behaved to some passport holders as if they might be trying to smuggle themselves into the Soviet Union on false passports, not transit passengers unwittingly delayed here!

3. We were herded into the hotel lobby to be addressed very curtly by a tired receptionist whose first words were to the effect that she was tired and didn't want any trouble, and that we must share rooms by twos.

4. The nest day a rough handwritten list of new departure flights was put on the reception desk, for Singapore, Lusaka, Mogadishu and Dar-es Salaam. All these turned out to be wrong, except for a few Singapore passengers and a few Dar es Salaam passengers.

Mogadishu passengers were told five minutes before bus departure that they weren't going. Some of the Dar es Salaam group were taken off the plane... Information is not conveyed to all rooms. Passengers are expected to "hover" and keep their ears and eyes open at all times. Yet, some passengers were shouted at, when sitting in the lobby, not to smoke and ordered to "go to your floor, these are seats for departing passengers." !!Only those of us who have protested or insisted have received anything like an apology on any matter.

On one occasion we were told to write down our complainst and the people responsible "would be punished" Punishment is not the issue. Who should punish whom? Is it the fault of the tired old lady at the end of a long shift or is it the fault of the Aeroflot organisation?

THE HOTEL

[You have to remember that Dad's father was an excellent hotel manager in South Africa.]

6. The really low standard of meal service, the lack of ordinary services and facilities like tea, coffee and fresh water; the attempted bureaucracy and regimentation of "Guests" which is so rigid it must inevatibly break down into inefficiency and confusion - all these things would be understandable in some youth camp or neglected provincial hotel. But I repeat, we are talking of a modern hotel by the new airport of a great capital.

This is becoming your "window" for thousands ordinary westerners and Third World people, more than your conferences. This is really doing criminal damage to your reputation!

Some examples:
  • Meal service is appalingly slow. We have to elbow our way to get vouchers for every meal. Then we can wait up to one hour for service, and very long waits between meals.
  • There are no between meals refreshment, even if we wish to pay, which should not always be necessary. In the heat we need a reaqdy refreshment service.
  • There is no leisure facility of any kind. Not a single chess set or table tennis. Nobody has even thought of how to keep the transit hostages diverted!
  • On the second day some of us had no soap or toilet paper. We had to plead and demand, until a small bar of soap and a small pile of shabby squares were handed over, on written application!! We are now running out again.

For the sake of your own reputation, you should now take immediate action on all these points.

Tony Hall

On the Ferry to Istanbul




Darling Mom and Dad,

In a few hours we'll be arriving in Istanbul. We caught the ferry from Trabzon on Friday and it's been a very pleasant and restful two days sailing on the Black Sea. It's beautiful, and the little ports are crowded and not too expensive. We've stayed on deck, as it was much cheaper even than the dormitory beds.

To and Phil slept on deck in sleeping bags, while the twins and I slept in the VW - everytime we stopped we bought bread and fruit and kebabs to eat on board. Only today did we have a meal in the restaurant and it was pretty expensive.

It's fun, but alas, no place to wash, except your face! So after over 48 hours, we're pretty grubby and smelly!

Yesterday, the twins birthday - not really celebrated, except that they got a few extra cokes, and a German lady in a Kombi made them each a chocolate pudding!

The deck is pretty crowded- and agains we met a couple we first met at the border in Pakistan. Last night they showed a film - the screen over the deck, but the volume was only for first class! We sat on top of the VW and watched and fortunately that Australian couple had seen the movie before, [The Thomas Crown Affair], and could tell us what was happening.

We've only stayed in hotels twice since we left Tehran. In Tabriz there was an excellent (tho' fairly expensive) campsite, on the banks of an artificial lake.

Next stop was Maku, where we didn't find a proper camp site so we stayed in a rather grotty little hotel and Phil slept in the VW that night to guard our things. We crossed the border into Turkey the next day, with no searches at all, Aand that night we stayed in a hotel in Erzum - it rained and was very cold - it's nearly 7000 ft high in the mountains.

Then the next day we drove to Trabzon, which took us quite long because it was a winding mountainous unsurfaced road. We found a very nice campsite, with the use of a beach, in Trabzon, which is a reallypretty little town. We stayed there three nights and caught the ferry on Friday afternoon.

We don't know how long we will stay in Istanbul - at least twon nights and and probably three, depending on where we find to stay, how cheap it is, etc. We've enjoyed Turkey and everyone says Istanbul is great.

To's busy converting our sleeping vehicle into a sitting one again, and the boys are busy cutting up a watermelon. We'll see you in less than two weeks!

Lots of love,

Hugs and kisses to you both,

Your Evechen

P.S. We're most likely going via Greece rather than Bulgaria for the silliest reason! To's passport is nearly full and the Bulgarian visa needs a full page - which he hasn't got. Greece requires no visa! So we'll go via Thessaloniki and then Zagreb, and not Sofia.

29.10.09

Overland trip

From New Delhi to Nice





Tony Hall's plans and notes based on Mary Barnett's log book


5th July Delhi to Amritsar

7am Leave. Arrive around 4pm - stay at Mrs Bandare's Guest House.

6th July Amritsar - Lahore

Level fertile country - allow time for border crossing.

7th July Wednesday Lahore - Peshawar (443km = 275 miles)

Industrial areas, then across fertile plains to Jhelum. Mountain road to Rawalpindi - busy fairly wide GT road to Peshawar

8th -10th July (Thursday to Saturday) Peshawar to Kabul (205kms = 90 miles)

Peshawar to customs 56kms

Khyber road, quite winding and narrow in parts, but not very difficult. Pass closed sunset to sunrise. 30 Afghanis toll payable at Sarobi (80kms before kabul) - through gorge to Kabul

Sunday 11th July Kabul - Kandahar - pre-dawn departure

Take ample petrol and food. 512 kms - 318 miles

Modern highway, Resthouse (Petrol) at Ghazni (146 kms from Kabul) Gradual ascent (Highest point 9000ft) then easy descent to Ghazni. Further descent Ghazni to Kandahar.

Pay 30 Afghanis between 19km toll and 125 km toll
Pay 50 Afghanis between 169 km toll (Nani) and 439 km toll.

Monday 12th July - Tuesday 13th July Kandahar to Herat

Pre dawn departure

Modern road. Across scrubland and desert. Road tolls payable: 40 Afghanis 32 km toll 370 and 483 km toll barriers. Hold counterfoils.

Wednesday 14th July Herat to Mashad - pre dawn departure

Cross border into Iran (121 kms before customs) 376 km - 234 miles. Toll: 30 Afghanis near Herat. Modern road across level country side. Follow river valley from Herat to Khosan (just before Afghan cistoms) Both customs seperate from borders.

Thursday 15th July to Friday 16th July Mashad - Gongan pre dawn departure. 602 kms

High mountain plateau in between Mashad and Shirvan. Descent to Ashkaneh, then step country pof Turkomen nomads. Around Dasht virgin forest of Shah's hunting reserve.

Saturday 17th July - Sunday 18th July Gongan - Tehran 305 kms

Gongan to Sari through wooded foothills of Elburz mountains - 143 kms. Sari to Tehran 262 kms (163 miles). From North of Elsburz mountains across rice growing Mazandaran plains - through hilly country, then into Tehran.

Monday 19th July Tehran - Tabriz (long but easy drive) 653 kms = 406 miles

Camp in Tabriz. Motorway to Karaj, costs 40 reals - (alternative)

Open, monotonous plain as far as Zanjan. (331 kms), Then generally mountainous country to Tabriz (4,450 ft alt.)

Thursday 20th July Tabriz - Maku (border) 287 kms = 173 miles

Resthouse at Maku. 5000ft pass, summit at 61 kms after Tabriz. Then down into irrigated plain of Maranal (71 kms) down again Khevoi (another irrigated plain). From Satam (190 kms) to Maku, narrow mountainous road with hairpin bends over 7000ft pass then descending to Maku at 4,500 ft. Distance between Maku and border, 24 kms

Thursday 22nd July Erzurum - Trabzon 329 kms - 204 miles.

Through pass 7800 ft (at 85 kms) down to Gumushane (211 kms) Bare and rocky slopes up to here then winding mountain slopes through forest (through pass 6,600ft at 262 kms,) down to Trabzon.

[Here dad gives an alternate route that we didn't take via Samsun and Ankara. Instead we took the ferry to Istanbul and slept 3rd class on the deck of the ship]

Sunday 25th to 27th [In fact we arrived, according to dad's notes, on the 23rd] Istanbul

Wednesday the 28th July Istanbul Erdine 238 kms -= 148 miles

Dual carriageway first 24 kms. Modern road - plateau, then down across sandy coastal plain Silivry at 71 kms, then undulating downs

Istanbul - Alexandropolis - in fact we went to Thessaloniki and stayed at the beach

Saturday 31st [in fact 29th] July Sunday Sofia - Belgrade 402 kms = 249 miles

Industry after Sophia then agricultural then Dragomar Pass 2600 ft - Then border customs after 56 kms after Sofia Then thro' wild country with magnificent mountain views on single lane carriageway.

Along cultivated valley of River Moraba, thro' undulating country towards Danube and then into Belgrade

Monday 2nd August [actually, 31st July] Belgrade - Zagreb 389 kms = 241 miles

Route crosses plain of river Sawa.

1st August Zagreb - Rijeka 204 kms = 127 miles

Carriageway under construction to Karlovac Across cultivated plain of river Sawa Then pleasant run across undulating partly wooded Croatian hills. Then fine view between Debnice and Felenjer (fairly close to Rijeka). Mountainous picturesque route generally tho' many quaint villages.

August 2nd August - 3rd August Rijeka - Venice 243 kms = 150 miles

Rijeka to Trieste 77 kms - 48 miles Border at 64 kms after Rijeka. Some views of many islands off coast, ascending thro' lush coastal vegetation to Corste plateau then  thro' woods to Trieste. Trieste - Venice: 164 kms 103 miles

Route 14, (alternative) 161  kms (100 miles) both cross flat plain of little interest - 3 rivers. But this one skirts Bay of Trieste with superb scenery.

Friday 4th August Venice - Genoa - 249 miles

Venice Mantua - 92 miles - 148 kms. Motorway A13 and A14. Fast, level, monotonous road.

Mantua - Piacentza 62 under 99 kms Straight level road across River Po basin Autostrada A21 between Cremona and Piacenza
Piacenza - Genoa 149 kms - 93 miles Motorway A7 & A21

Saturday 5th August Genoa - Golfe Juan (148 miles maximum)

Genoa - Savona = 31 miles - 30 kms
Winding coast road or quicker motorway.

Savona - Menton (border) 72 miles motorway (80 miles, new road) = 129 km

Menton - Nice via Cornice Inferieure, moyenne, grande - 18- 20 miles

Nice - Golfe Juan * 26 km. = 17 miles

26.10.09

Shooting the crap with Madeleine bunting




In response to Madeleine Bunting's blog ...

My son tells me that where we are in science right now is discovering what it means to be human.

I think that sums it up. It's also an interesting statement, because it allows me to take a broader view of identity and allows me to cross over from seeing identity as a scientific notion to seeing identity as a set of beliefs.

But we are at an odd moment in time. Some scientists don't like these crossovers. At this stage in the research into human consciousness and the brain it seems to have become almost an article of faith for some biologists and philosophers that the human "mind" as such doesn't exist - merely the brain and its behaviours. The so called "mind" for them, in the terms we non-scientists speak of it, is just a fairy castle. There is no justification  for drawing conclusions from introspection in serious brain science.

Consequently, the ways in which we intuitively understand who we are, according to these people,have to be discarded as truths. They aren't scientific, and so the baby, and then the whole psychoanalytic baby too, is thrown out with the bathwater. They are mere catagory errors, mere analogies.

On the other hand national identity really can be just a literary and artistic confection, seeking confirmation in the penumbra of half science. It can be manipulated nonsense.

There is a famous book about Mexican identity called "El Labarinto de la Soledad" by Octavio Paz ,and what it says basically that Mexican identity was formed in great part by the rape of Indigenous women by Spanish conquistadors.

Of course its just a story. It's not really true. It's a writers account, a product of the imagination, but a lot of people go along with this book, because it claims to explain the origins of Mexican machismo and the attitude of Mexican men to women .

Wasn't the most notorious narrative of identity that of Ultima Thule and the Nazi idea that the hardy German race all came from a "white island" in the north. It was completely fabricated, of course.

Look at the case of the Cornish. They were conquered and tortured just like any other Celtic minority nation and yet they are not allowed their identity. There were a whole series of police raids on Cornish nationalists. Contrast this treatment to the way Welsh Nationalism, Irish nationalism and Scottish nationalism have been recognised and given their place.

But the English?

We can go back 400,000 years at least. Then later on the last ice age didn't cover the whole of Britain. It reached London and stopped. The whole of the South, South East and South West was uncovered. Archeologists have found the remains.

And then, as you know, the channel filled up 9000 years ago or so.

According to my many visits to the British Museum in my lunch breaks, much later, before the Beaker people, were another people. Perhaps they were relatives of the Basques and Hungarians. Then there were the Beaker people, the builders of stonehenge. The first migration of Hallstat Celts took place about 600-700 bc. La Tene 300 years later. Then came the Roman colonists, the Anglo Saxons, the Vikings, the French, the Dutch and then the blow back of empire and imperialism.

Like a coral reef, British identity just keeps accreting.

If you look at Piaget and Vygotsky's insights - though biologists might not consider them to be scientists - then you get an idea of the way the human being forms itself. It takes what lies around it and builds itself from the materials, culture and skills that it is exposed to. Anything to hand.

Trying to find an authentic British identity is, as Madeleine Bunting might suggest, not authentic because it involves going back in time, it involves digging up the past.

The true British identity for me, is that of an imploded empire. Unfortunately we have been on the winning side in the last couple of world wars and so haven't been made to reflect on Britain's historical crimes. If we did we would understand.

Once the majority of us can face up to the fact that being British means having been a population lead by a criminal elite, then we will get a much better idea of our identity.

The British establishment was responsible for slavery, for sending four year old children down the mines during the industrial revolution, for genocides in Australia and America, for colonising half the world and dominating it for a hundred years.

We can see Britain's historical crimes and understand that they are partly the cause for the current mix in post empire Britain. Bitaisn's historical crimes help explain why we live in a multicultural society. We have disassociate ourselves from the actions of our establishment and from the more poisonous establishment narratives of British empire, from the monarchy and stories of British "greatness".

I asked a friend in the army, the SAS, if he would still fight for Britain if it was a socialist republic and he said:

"Definitely not. For Queen and country or nothing."

And that is the problem. The British people identified with their oppressors and the the oppressors of millions - the British establishment.

Yes we need a new British identity - a republican, socialist one.

25.10.09

The Shiela

By Eve Hall

Published in TRANSITION

Volume 4, number 16, 1964


They called her Shiela, because that's what she was, a Sheila, a Johannesburg Moll. She had three different surnames I knew of, Dreyers, the most infamous. She came to the prison with Victor as her alias, and I think she had used van Wyk not long before.

She was not quite 19, and very pretty, tall, with short wild blond hair, (the black dye had grown out when I met her), blue eyes, a very snub nose, long firm legs, large perfect breasts and a small waist. She slouched badly and it was her pride that she had, in the seven months she had been there, worn out three pairs of the prison's shoes. She had tatoos on both her arms and an ornate Micky Mouse on one large thigh.

When I was first hustled into the communal eating room, harassed by the very thorough search given to political prisoners, naked under my striped dressing gown, staggering under a load of blankets, sheets, uniforms, I hardly saw the women sitting around the three tables. When finally I sat and chewed, with no appetite at all, the boiled meat and sweet potatoes on my plate, I had a moment of revulsion and panic. I would be living with theives, prostitutes, murderers.

My naivity and horror soon disappeared. Sharing a large cell, and working with the women in one, not so large, cockroach infested room, I was one of them, unidentifiable, sitting with equinamity through dangerous fights, ignoring tears, wasting many of my own, and listening in fascination to their talk.

Sheila was the least sad, and the most exhuberant girl there.. She never sat still, interrupting her work to fetch water, to annoy one of the old women by pushing against her, or to sing "Micheal Row the Boat Ashore" in a loud, raucous, monotonous voice. She knew two other songs, "Ducktail Boogie" and a dirty Afrikaans song that I only half understood.

She spoke a mixture of English and Afrikaans, but could speak neither language properly. She hoarded her sugar ration and licked it up like a child licking jelly powder, she fought and giggled, she sprayed the old and neurotic convicts with water, she scared herself with the ghost stories she told in the cell at night, and she stripped naked to sunbathe during the lunch lock-up when the wardresses went off.

She saw photographs of my children one day, and she asked me to tell her about them. She listened to me quietly, and then said:

"You'd hate to have a daughter like me, hey?"

"No, I'd love to have a daughter as pretty as you," I answered.

She blushed and laughed loudly at me, but from that day treated me gently, and even polished my floor for me sometimes. I misunderstood her and feeling I had some influence over her, tried to correct her. Her reaction was violent, she swore at me, and I never presumed to interfere again.

I soon knew most of her history. Almost all the prisoners were anxious to tell me why they were in jail, to explain their innocence, or  excuse their guilt. Sheila spoke openly, and with gusto, of her past life, revelling in her memories.

She had spent most of her adolescence in reformatories and escaped from them all. At the age of 16 she escaped once again, and coming back to Johannesburg, joined her old gang, dyeing her hair pitch black.

Her father refused to let her live with him, her mother she could hardly remember, she had nowhere to go, and she didn't want to go anywhere. She battled [prostituted herself], lived with her boyfriend, smoked dagga, drank and enjoyed life.

She met her mother once, in a hotel lounge, and they had a tearful and dramatic reunion. Her mother gave her an address and Shiela lost it, and they never saw each other again.

Shortly after this Shiela, her boyfriend, and two others planned to rob a cafe. I don't think it was because they were short of money. Shiela did well battling; she was younger and prettier than most of the girls, and she told me with pride that whenever they felt like having a joll [Johannesburg slang for party] she would battle from six to eight in the evening and get enough money to pay for her gang's night out.

They broke into the cafe and they were caught, all four of them. In spite of her assumed name, and dyed hair the police discovered who she was, and her case was remanded. She was then only seventeen. The magistrate ajourned her case for three months, until she turned eighteen so that he could give her a jail sentence and not send her to reformatory again.

She enlivened those three months in jail awaiting trial by smuggling, fighting and getting her friend Helga to tatoo her name across her breasts. It took her an hour every night for three weeks. Helga patiently scratched her skin with a nib dipped in ink, while Shiela sat without saying a word, tears running down her cheeks from the pain. But it wasn't successful, and when I met her it had almost faded.

When Sheila was eventually sent to one year, she was sent to this prison. She was glad that she hadn't been sent to a reformatory; she said the work was much harder there, the wardesses beat the girls, and the girls beat each other.

But her fame had reached our prison before she ever came to it, and the matron was determined to subdue her. Three days after she arrived, for a fairly mild offence, Sheila was given six days on rice water, which meant, as well as no food, six days in solitary, and six days off her remission. She went into the isolation block kicking and screaming. For two days she sobbed loudly. Then she was silent. When they let her out she sulked for a week, refusing to talk to anyone. Her exhuberance soon came back, but she remained frightened of the matron, and would not open her mouth if she was near.

After this she settled down to the routine of prison life easily, giving the cell she shared with five other girls a boarding school atmosphere. I was not in her cell, but in a large one with eleven women, mostly elderly, many neurotic and one moronic. I listened, after lights out, to the squeals, laughter and shouts coming from Sheila's cell with a kind of longing, for though I was able to read in peace in the evenings, the fights in our cell were violent and ugly, the nagging irritations constant.

I had arrived at our prison two months before Sheila was due to be discharged. As her date grew nearer she became more restless and excitable. She attacked her work with a ferocious nergy and with an irritation often dangerous to those around her. She swept the yard so energetically, she ruined the few, small, tomato plants around the cement.

She banged the chairs so hard to get the cockroaches out she broke two. She would crochet furiously and silently for ten minutes, and scraping back her chair with a loud screech, run to the calendar to count the days again.

"Six more weeks. Thirty six days not counting Sundays, six more Sundays", she would shout, pushing whoever was near her violently.

And those with years ahead of them would not even look up, and those with not much longer looked up and smiled.

When she had counted the days three times, four times, she would jump on a chair and look through the pale green bars to see the time on the church clock, leaping down quickly as the wardress came in, to ask for the tenth time:

"Isn't our coffee here yet Juffrou?" 

And when our wardress answered as usual, "Get on with your work, Victor". Shiela with a loud sigh, and a bang of her hair would pick up her work again.

It was a tradition that a prisoner was taken off polishing floors in her last month, during which time she was supposed to lose the tell-tale pads on her knees. So loud and obscene was her reaction when she saw her name down on the list in the last month, that the matron herself came in to enquire what the fuss was about. Shiela flushed, and could hardly make her complaint. But the matron took her off floors and she was given the duty of dishing out food. For the next few weeks we ate large crumbly slices of bread, and  while most of us learned to keep our plates well away as she splashed out cupfulls of cabbage, the long timers' dislike of her grew.

In the first week of her last month her suitcase full of clothes arrived. She washed them over and over, and spread them out to dry with care, taking days over the ironing, reluctant to let them go again to be stored in her property bag. She began to talk of what she would do with her boyfriend , who had also got a year, and six cuts. 

One Sunday morning, as we were lying on blankets in the shade of the high yellow baked-brick wall that enclosed the exercise yard, looking up at our square of blue sky, and the wheeling hawks, she asked me:

"Would you give me a job looking after your children?"

Ignoring the loud laughter from her two friends I told her I had a maid who was looking after my sons while I was in jail.

"But you could get a job looking after children Shiela, they would love you. Why don't you try for a job with the Child Welfare when you get outside?" 

She took me very seriously. "Then I had better stop swearing."

I began outlining a course for her junior certificate, but I went back to my reading: She and Helga had started a scuffle, rolling over each other on the cement and shouting "eina".

The next Sunday morning, the matron called Shiela to tell her that her sister and a welfare worker were coming to see her that afternoon. Shiela was quite with delight. She washed and curled her hair, ironed her overall and sat tensely until the wardress called her. She came back glowing.

"My Sussie says she'll get me a job when I get out. I told her and the lady how lekker I'd like it, if I got a job with kids, and she says she'll get me a job in hospital. And she's got my shoes, and she'll leave them with the matron, and she says I can get them fixed."

"That's wonderful Shiela." I said, "Will she come and fetch you?"

"No man, I'm taking the train, and she and the lady's meeting me at the station, and she says I mustn't be bad anymore."

"Are you going to listen to her Shiela?" I asked, laughing.

"Yes, I'm going to get a job, and be good like you."

"Are you going to live with your father?"

"No, my Sussie says my father doesn't want me with him. I'm going to live in a hostel, the lady said. And my Sussie said that my boet [brother] got 9 to 15 years,and she cried and I asked her if she wrote to him, but she doesn't want to and I said she's got to. Shame, it's not nice in jail when nobody write or visits you."


 "How old is your brother?" I asked.

"Twenty five."

"What did he do?"

"Robbery. When I get out I am going to visit him."

The prison call of "Kos Meises" interrupted us and we trooped inside for our food. I sat at the same table as Shiela, and always knew when to turn my head away from her as, just before she slouched over her food, she took out her false tooth. She said she could taste her graze better without it.

The matron came while we were eating, and in the uneasy silence that followed she asked Shiela: "Well Victor, did you have a pleasant visit?"

Shiela blushed and nodded, then asked the matron. "Did my Sussie leave my shoes?"

The matron frowned. "What shoes?"

"My shoes. My Sussie said she'd leave them and that you said I could fix them."

"She must have forgotten them Victor."

Shiela pushed away her food and looked down at the table. When the matron left Helga tried to comfort her, but  Shiela swore at her rudely and banged her chair as she got up.

The wardress immediately called: Sit down Victor and Shiela swore at her. "Victor: stap kantoor toe." the wardress ordered, and with great banging of her feet, Shiela walked in front of her to the matron's office.

She came back as we were filing to our cells. She was red eyed and sullen, but I realised with relief that she was not going to be punished. The next morning she was full of laughter, full of energy, more than usually rough and that day her shoes arrived, by post.

I overheard her at lunch telling Helga what she and her "ou" would do when they got out, and boasting how much money they would make. When we started work in the afternoon she burst out loudly into "Ducktail Boogie"

Then she looked at me and laughed and said "I'm going to be good now, hey? I am not going to be a ducktail anymore." 

I smiled back at her.

A few days after this I was suddenly transferred to another prison. Later I heard that three days before her discharge the matron had called Shiela to her office window and told her that she would be sent to a reformatory until she was tewenty one. Shiela screamed and shouted and cried so much that the wardresses locked her up alone in the hospital section, where she stayed until the officials came to escort her to the reformatory.

Ars Notoria: the collective blogging hub

We've just kicked off Ars




We have just launched a blogging collective over at Ars Notoria. It's kicked off with a thoughtful and creative post from Paul at Gingtao, a playful blog by Billy on a new way of giving yourself a name, a massively impressive cartoon strip on Oscar Wilde by Dan Pearce, and a substantial article on blogging and collective blogging from the notorious wordnerd7.

All in all, this is a dam good start. 


ISA - Phil Hall


philiphall@london.com

17.10.09

I was Patti Smith's Pony



Andy, did a portrait session with Patti Smith, and while he took her picture he remarked:

"My brother Phil used to really like you."

"Yeah? Really. Well that's it. I have to go now."

"Come on", said Andy, "it's only been a few minutes".

"Well you got more time than I gave Robert Mapplethorpe", she said, and left.

Andy meets a lot of well-known people in his line of work. He said Roman Polanski was a wanker. Or was he talking about someone else? But you have to admire Polanski as a director: Le Locataire scared the hell out of me.

In one scene the protagonist sees the sillouette of a man looking out at him from a toilet across the courtyard, and so he runs around the block through the corridors to find out who it is who it is.

He finds the toilet. It is painted in yellow, and covered in Hieroglyphs, but there is no one there. He looks out back at his own apartment and sees the same sillouette of a man framed in his bedroom window.

I was a teenager, babysitting and doing up my parents friends' gardens. I went to the Kaplinskis. Raphie and Cathy Kaplinski once roasted a whole sheep at a party they organised for friends  There was a disused railway station near their home and they had a large overgrown garden. To my 17 year old teenage self Cathy was beautiful and Raphie was loud and charismatic.But their daughter, Natasha seemed was very quiet. I have an image of her sitting on the back of their sofa in the lounge. She must have been about 14.



Then I worked for the Lambs and the Barnets and the Raikes and Bretts, and while I was doing this I was going nuts and Patti Smith's album Horses helped tip me over into a depression.

I got on well with Toby and Ben Raikes. When I looked after them I treated them as equals and we had long honest conversations together. I was 17, Toby was 12 and Ben was 10. Toby still remembers how I looked after them, and speaks of me with fondness. I'd like to see Toby again.

When people are falling apart they are radioactive. I remember my former girlfriend didn't want to be with me and put me together with another friend of hers in a strange chemical experiment. What would happen? Perhaps she thought that as were both without balance, we would stabilise each other.

He was a young man whose brain was gently cooking in strange particles and I could feel them coming from his chest and stomach in a haze. I had learned about chi and his chi was sticky and disgusting.

I read a book by Kurt Vonnegut's son around that time. There is a scene where someone comes to Vonnegut Jr.and says,

"Please give me some of that strange energy you have."

And Vonnegut Jr. says "Alright." and he zaps the petitioner, who then needs hospitalisation.Vonnegut was suffering from Schizophrenia.

Habie Schwarz told me of a dream she had had:

"I dreamed of you and when you opened your mouth I saw blackness; pure blackness poured out."

I didn't recognise what I was experienceing all those years ago as depression. But when a teenager dresses up in a black coat lined with red satin and runs through the streets all night. When he drives drunk across intersections and punches people and listens to Patti Smith's Horses, these are bad signs.

Perhaps the nadir was when, one afternoon, I accidentally stabbed myself in the leg with a sharpened pencil The lead snapped off and the wound festered and my knee grew so hot that I went to a hospital.

It was a tower block near the sea front. The woman at reception told me to go away, but after the X-Ray they rushed me into surgery. I wonder how many people are harmed by clueless reception staff in big hospitals. 

I woke up with a fleshy hole in my leg that I could fit my finger into up to the first knuckle. Across the ward was an old man whose drip had come out of his arm. He was calling for a nurse who wouldn't come. His pyjamas were wet at the crotch. It was midnight and the room was big and cold and the lights were bright. The wind soughed against the corners of the tall building. To the right of the old man the window was a black rectangle of darkness.

There were crates and crates of home made beer on the balcony of 16A Inwood Crescent. I used to drink that sweet, partially fermented beer. I can still taste it right in my mouth. The house was like a box drum and my mother and father sleept below. They had to get up to work at 6am every morning and as I thumped round upstairs my mother would weep, because she couldn't get to sleep. I had a fist fight with my brothers, I smashed a radio into the floor, and kicked a hole into the door.

I started going out with Rudi Benjamin. We went to her house in Bosham. Her mom was Pixie Benjamin, a former member of the Congress of Democrats who was jailed after mom. Pixe was in the early stages of cancer.

Rudi was a very experienced 19 year old who took me on and rode me hard. Like a wild pony, she broke me in. I was upset about that at the time, I was a romantic, I loved someone else, someone far away. I let it happen. But I suppose it did gentle me down a bit and I learned a lot. Rudi was a wonderful person. There was a picture next to her bed of a naked supine girl with an ankle bracelet.

"Yes, she admitted, that was me when I was 15."  

Still, before Rudi got started on me, we had an amber moment: one of those moments covered in sweet resinous illumination that harden and last.

We were in Bosham and the sun was setting over the harbour. I drank a glass of wine and relaxed with them around their wooden table and for the first time in two years I was myself again. The room was suddenly full of light.

I saw Patti Smith at the roundhouse in 1977. It was probably the best concert I ever went to. Patti Smith and her guitarist, Fred "Sonic" Smith were lost in their music and took all us along with them.

Andy blew up the picture of Smith and gave it to me for my Birthday. You can see it on Andy's blog. I was waiting until we got a new house and I got my study before I hung the great dame up, on a wall, but then yesterday Carmen said.

"Do you know Patti Smith dad?" and I said

"Of course."

"Well I like Easter, I've been listening to it." 

My children, the Spotify generation, graze far and wide and their tastes in music will know no bounds.

And so I could present Carmen with Andy's wonderful picture of Patti Smith which she can put up in her room.  She was excited about it, but I told her to be very careful when she listens to the songs on "Horses". because they are strong and rather dangerous.

Patti Smith: Land

Patti Smith: Redondo Beach

Patti Smith: Birdland

13.10.09

Memories of Araminta - an Austin 10





Women's NATION - Kenya


The Friday Commentry

By Eve Hall, 1966

I have often wanted to write a dirge on "cars I have known" - or more specifically, on one car. Araminta a little green Austin who was born in 1935, and died an ignoble death at the age of 17.

She was beautiful in her prime. Square as a little box, and just as comfortable. She embarassed our relatives, annoyed and frightened our friends, and invariably made us late for any appointment.

She was also, unhesitatingly, not to be relied on; but she rolled down hills wonderfully - except for the time a fool mechanic forgot to tighten the screws on one of her wheels.

She limped painfully down a very steep hill, with her family sitting inside her, unconscious of impending disaster.We didn't notice the extra wobble from the everyday ones, but it did seem that passing motorists looked at us with more than usual horror. But with a fine instinct of self preservation, we turned into a garage, just as the rear left wheel gave an awful little crunch and came off.

At the age of 15, she grew a little eccentric. When she stalled in heavy traffic, she refused to move until we leaped out, opened her bonnet and jiggled her terminals. Her petrol guage refused to indicate, and we had to dip a stick into her tank to check. If we forgot she never failed to make us pay the price for our neglect - and she usually chose a spot far from any petrol dump to give her last despairing and accusing gurgle.

But she was essentially an uncomplicated soul. To start her, all you needed was a hairpin to switch her engine on, and a brisk run up and down the hill with one man at the wheel and two at the mast. Then, she throbbed and purred, and was ready to go anywhere, if it wasn't too steep.

Strangers found the gusts of fumes from her gearbox disconcerting. We thought it gave Araminta a homely touch - like her corduroy unholstered seats and the windscreen wipers that had to be worked by hand.

As she grew older she shed her refinements. As we went over a bump, one faithful day, her back window fell out. From that day passengers in the back seat had to wear a raincoat over their heads or crouch under an umbrella in wet weather. Her front passenger seat collapsed and had to be propped up by an orange crate. The cap on her petrol tank had to be replaced by a cloth.

Traffic police started demanding proof of road-worthiness - but they never brought themselves to write out a summons. They were doubled up with laughter and couldn't reach the pens in their breast pockets.

Gradually, her disintegration led to her final convulsion. "Her wiring's wrong." said the garage hand. "It'll cost you £100 to have her repaired. I'll give you £5 for her - but it will cost you £10 to have her towed to the garage."

He kicked the tyres unfeelingly.

With guilt written all over our faces, and heavy hearts, we abandoned her in her hour of need. Slowley, she rotted in a slummy side street and was raped of her wheels, her seats, her windows and her handles. She was a monument to our uneasy conscience - and we breathed a sigh of relief when we saw, one rainy day, that she'd been taken away to the city dump.

Life is so much less exciting now. We don't have to walk for miles carrying gallon tins of petrol. We don't make a spectacle of ourselves by holding up double-decker buses during peak-hour traffic. We dn't clatter as we go over a bump - and we feel so much less daring as we glide in our luxurious VW.

We're no longer pioneers behind the wheel of our horseless carriage - we're just car drivers.

*****

Some pictures of the heroic rebuild of an Austin 10 by an enthusiast.

11.10.09

Afghan breakdown

For some soldiers, I know
Afghan is just fun
They shoot up civilians
They like to play with guns

But Im just a territorial soldier
I do my best to police the streets
I try to stop shit from happening
And give the children sweets.

In Kabul a woman gives birth,
Watching her blood just run
He daughter is sitting by her
But no one is going to come.

In Kandahar wild bullets fly
They rip through muddy walls
And when a family dies
You can't hear them at all.

The girl is thinking
That she'll be a doctor one day
She'll stop cruelty to women
She'll make the Taliban pay?

We drive past the graves,
Set into a mountain pass.
Then wade across a river
And step up onto grass.

This night we're going to leave
On a Hercules to Kent
We are getting out of this war
The opportunity is heaven sent.

But wearing bloody beards
Along come the Taliban,
Murderous, bastards
Down to every single man

And in the rosy glow of morning.
I see a boy with his bayonet.
He's used it on my best friend
And I guess that I'll be next.


To the tune of Smokin' Gun

10.10.09

Play list 5: I am a Stranger here

Mac Wiseman and the Osborne Brothers: I am a Stranger here

Mac Wiseman: The house of the rising sun


Ralph Stanley: I'll remember you love in my prayers

Allman Brother's Band: Ramblin' Man

The Band: The Night they Drove old Dixie Down

The Del McCoury Band: Smokin' gun

Ralf Stanley and the Clinch: I am the Man

Ralf Stanley: Calling you

James Carter and the Prisoners: Po' Lazarus

The Dubliners: Dirty Old Town

Sweeney's Men: Sally Brown

Mark O' Connor: Appalachia Waltz

Abigail Washburn: Old Timey Dance party

Edgar Meyer: Please don't feed the Bear

9.10.09

In the beginning was the "nous"























Magritte: Le Blanc Seing

In the Spirit of "Nous"

The character of the Gods of the old days were based on the assumption that the natural world possessed intelligences. But it was only when pre-Socratics like Pherecydes abstracted these intelligences somewhat into powers or forces in the Heptamychos that other philosophers later came to see these powers as intelligible.

Pherecydes, said to be Pythagorus' tutor, wrote of a more abstract creative principle, Zas, rather than the human-like, Zeus. Zas existed in "time" (Chronos) on earth and Pherecydes was probably influenced not only by the Theogony of Hesiod and Homer's epic, but by Phoenician cosmology too.

Having assumed that, not only was nature possessed of intelligences, but that these intelligences themselves were potentially intelligible, Thales, Anaximander, Pythagorus and later Anaximenes were now in a position to try and understand the natural world: to become natural philosophers - physicists.

This is the importance of Pherecydes. He prepared the way for a leap of faith. That leap of faith was rationalism. The causes might be complex and the resultant natural world difficult to account for, but there were causes and effects and that people might understand.

The ability of people to understand was called nous by Homer and then it was refined by Anaxagoras. Aristotle said that passive nous was capable of apprehending intelligible forms Later on Plotonius developed the idea into that of an intelligible emanation from a single divine being - equivalent to the idea of Ein Soph in Kabalism.

Anaxagoras discusses "nous", in a rather messy way, feeling his way:

"All other things partake in a portion of everything, while Nous is infinite and self-ruled, and is mixed with nothing, but is alone itself by itself. For if it were not by itself, but were mixed with anything else, it would partake in all things if it were mixed with any; for in everything there is a portion of everything, as has been said by me in what goes before, and the things mixed with it would hinder it, so that it would have power over nothing in the same way that it has now being alone by itself. For it is the thinnest of all things and the purest, and it has all knowledge about everything and the greatest strength; and Nous has power over all things, both greater and smaller, that have life. And Nous had power over the whole revolution, so that it began to revolve in the beginning. And it began to revolve first from a small beginning; but the revolution now extends over a larger space, and will extend over a larger still. And all the things that are mingled together and separated off and distinguished are all known by Nous. And Nous set in order all things that were to be, and all things that were and are not now and that are, and this revolution in which now revolve the stars and the sun and the moon, and the air and the aether that are separated off. And this revolution caused the separating off, and the rare is separated off from the dense, the warm from the cold, the light from the dark, and the dry from the moist. And there are many portions in many things. But no thing is altogether separated off nor distinguished from anything else except Nous. And all Nous is alike, both the greater and the smaller; while nothing else is like anything else, but each single thing is and was most manifestly those things of which if has most in it."

Anaxagoras fragment R. P. 155 quoted in John Burnet's Early Greek Philosophy

Hold faith with the belief that the world and the cosmos is wholly intelligible, and you can take the first step using the invisible bridge of rational human thought to support you as you walk across the chasm of the unknown.

But let's go back to the initial idea, before Pherecydes partial abstraction, that nature, soaked in intelligibility, is not merely passively inanimate or animate, but that it is full of God-like intelligences, or the single unified intelligence of Plotonius.


The problem of language

Unfortunately, language and intelligence are bound together. This is unfortunate because with language as tool for reflection we are limited by the very structure of our tool. Linguists, and especially psycholinguists, have suggested that synesthesia and metaphor are at the root of human understanding.

This means that we think, to use an analogy, in a cellular fashion. When something has a recognisable pattern, then it comes within the cell walls of our consciousness. We can then attempt to deconstruct it and make sense of it and try to make sense of what remains to be understood.

We use our existing knowledge to absorb and understand what is just beyond the limits of what we know. We can use the metaphor of feeding or eating. But the metaphor of feeding or eating itself rests on very little; it is experientialist.

And so, as people like Lakoff have suggested, at root our rationality is based on experientialist metaphors.

In fact this metaphorical quality of language, the tool we use to think, is quite a handicap. In particular because, as surrealists like Magritte have pointed out, the representation of something is not the thing itself. Neither is the use to which we put something a useful defining characteristic.

If you use the canvas of the Mona Lisa to cover over a windy gap in a broken window that doesn't mean the Mona Lisa is a draught excluder.

Abstraction is, in a way, a sort of simplification, a reification. In this sense Pherecydes mild reifications and abstractions made the natural world more tractable. But in the process the natural world was simplified and its nature not fully understood.

I can understand you because I have a theory of mind (TOM) about you. I make guesses as to what you know and what you want and what makes you tick and because I am like you I might get it right to some extent.

In a sense our ancestors had TOMs about the intelligences in nature. They saw the manifestation of intelligence; to a degree nature and its wheeling seasons flourishing and decay was intelligible and naturally they assumed that this implied that these complex and rhythmic manifestations of nature were the product of multiple intelligences.

And of course the world was full of animate beings and there was no reason for the human with a stick and a fire, a pot and a bone needle to conclude that s/he was separate and above nature or particularly privileged compared to other animals.

Naturally, a human seeing a gorilla or a bear would assume that we walked under the same forest and that, together with the bear and the gorilla, we were in a shared hyponymic relationship with them and not a superordinate one.

Of course the gnostics went back to the classics; but they made the assumption, not that nature was made up of rational intelligible processes, but that there were actual intelligences that operated through nature, and that these were intelligible.

In a way this was laziness. The were leaning on the symbolic and metaphorical nature of language. They were making universalist assumptions without seeing that the nature of the language of their thought did not allow this universalism.

What is a universal table? What is a universal mother? What is universal love?

These are merely constructs based on core of the human experience and yet understanding is not about going back to universals and monadism and the basic core of experience, but about going to the frontier of experience and coping with the ever increasing complexity and subtlety of it.

I think a good metaphor for human understanding comes from the director of a medical research institute in France who was a student of mine. He said.

"Look. It was our job to try and find a cure for aids and people have criticised us and they have said why haven't we found a cure for AIDs and my reply to them is this. Do you understand how incredibly complex it all really is?"

He proceeded to explain how a cell dealt with viruses and how the nucleus of a cell had a "memory" and how the body defended itself and I listened and I asked him to clarify what he said to me and finally I said:

"Well I seem to understand more or less what you are saying and if I understand more or less what you are saying then this natural phenomenon is intelligible and once you have understood it you can find a cure."

But he said:

"Look. The picture I have given you is incredibly simplified in fact there are hundreds of thousands of these different "viral keys" and we don't know how they operate and we don't know many things."

"And yet", I said, "once you have identified all of them, no matter how long it takes, and once you have worked out all the ramifications, then surely you will be in a position to find a workable solution."

He laughed: "It is easy to say, but not very easy to do. That's what people do not understand.

'This is the lecture I give my medical students at my university in Paris', he said. "But I always finish it in this way. I say:


"Everything I have told you up till now is only a metaphor.


"We don't really know exactly what happens. This is merely the way we explain this aspect of nature to ourselves. The words that I use and the descriptions I give you are useful and roughly correspond, but the description I have given you for what really happens when a virus attacks a cell and a cell has to defend itself, is incredibly simplified and it is a metaphor. It is not what actually happens.


"Remember that"'

To assume that we can understand nature is a great leap. The assumption causes us to progress, but some of the problems we face in understanding the complexity of nature seem unbelievably daunting.

And I am not sure how to disentangle intelligibility and intelligence. Science and gnosticism. Turing suggested a simple test. In fact it was based on intelligibility. The material, made intelligible and responsive to a human would then become an intelligence.

I am not sure if anyone is in a position to force a choice between scientific agnosticism and gnosticism. I think we are too glib about the distinction between intelligibility and intelligence.



* * *


Doing a search on "Intelligible power" produced:

Cartesian Meditations, Edmund Husserl

Could anything be more Intelligible than everyday Intelligibility: Reinterpreting Division I in Being and Time in terms of Division II, Hubert L Dreyfus

Early Greek Philosophy, John Burnet

Feminism, Foucault and Embodied Subjectivity, Margaret A Mclaran

Greek Philosophy III, The Hellenistic - Roman period (texts and commentary), E. J. Brill

The Intelligible Gods in the Platonic Theology of Proculus, Edward P. Butler

Lonergan on philosophic pluralism: the polymorphism of consciousness as the Key to philosophy, Gerard Walmsly

Metaphor Analogy and the Place of Places: where religion and philosophy meet, Carl G. Vaught

Plotonius on the Appearance of Time and the World of Sense: A Pantomime, Deepa Majumdar (?)

Plotonius, The Internet Encyclopedia of Philosophy

The unity of Wittgenstein's Philosophy: unity, intelligibility and normativity, Jose Medina


Some of this stuff is seminal, some of it a little odd, some of unintelligible and much of it illuminating.

8.10.09

Tory Victory? It's the xenophobia stupid

Cameron will govern for his class.

Disraeli called a Conservative government organised hypocrisy because the Tories generally don't govern for the benefit of one British nation, but for the benefit of their class.

The Conservatives will be even more servile to Murdoch and the corporates than New Labour. Although servile is not quite the word, is it? Companionable, is a better one. What is more they are likely to privatise and subcontract all government services right into the pockets of their friends. Judge Dredd here we come.

Moreover, if you think Tony Blair was a slippery, sleazy, spinner, just wait until you get Cameron, Gove, Osborne and the rest of that board of company directors running Britain PLC. Think of the M.G. Rover managers as a metaphor for a future Tory government.

The undeniable truth about the establishment in Britain is that, although they are elitist xenophobes, at the same time they have shown no loyalty to their nation. The Conservatives are there to represent the people who withdrew their capital from manufacturing and ploughed it into international financial speculation instead. The establishment - especially during the time of Margaret Thatcher - helped turned Britain into a casino economy, into a Atlantic entrepot.

But why wait to be disillusioned?

Do you remember the Charlie Brown comics? Lucy would come up to Charlie Brown with a football. She would promise to hold it upright so that Charlie Brown could take a run at it and give it a satisfying kick. Lucy managed to trick Charlie Brown into believing that she wouldn't whip the ball away at the last minute. But every time she did and so Charlie Brown would kick empty air and slip and fall.

Well a significant proportion of the British electorate is going to take a punt at voting for Cameron and as a result they are going to land the country on its arse, taking all of us down with them. It was these same swinging fools who voted for Blair.

But let's talk more about what is driving this Cameroonian advance. For Labour the real reason why people voted for them again and again, was that war or no war, civil liberties or no civil liberties, Labour and Brown kept house prices rising and people kept on remortgaging.

The truth about the people who will vote for the Tories, in my opinion, is this. A fair proportion of them are voting for the Conservatives despite the fact that the class war continues. Most ordinary people still hate old Etonians. But they will still vote for the Tories nevertheless, because key sections of the British electorate have become increasingly xenophobic and intolerant of the cosmopolitan New Labour used to mask its reactionary policies.

Voting for the Tories means voting against multiculturalism. Voting for the Tories is something a right wing, lumpen, white working class and lower middle class people are tempted to do in response to the technocratic manipulation of immigration flows by New Labour.

At heart isn't voting for the Tories really a manifestation of xenophobia? Look at the Tory party conference. Isn't voting for the Conservatives really a vote against women, gays, disabled people, ethnic minorities and religious minorities?

_______________________________________________

... a significant proportion of the British electorate is going to take a punt at voting for Cameron, and as a result they are going to land the country on its arse.

_______________________________________________

The Tories are the devil the white, lumpen, working and lower middle class know and understand. Perhaps these people hope the Tories will push the reset button on equal opportunities, multiculturalism and all the rest of it. This awful situation has been created by a Labour government that used Identity Politics as a cosmetic and by so doing devalued every single "progressive" cause it espoused.

This time it's not the rising house prices, its the Xenophobia, stupid. And although the Tories as a party may or may not be homophobic, prejudiced, racist, anti-Islamic and anti-feminist, a lot of the people who will vote for the Conservatives are. How else do you explain a bunch of Etonian toffs getting back into power? It's inexplicable otherwise; even as a protest vote.

New Labour used Identity Politics to try to disguise its right wing economics and hide its support of imperialism.

80% of the population of Britain are native white British and they look in the mirror of the mass media and what they see is pure cabaret. They do not see their reflection.

One of the main problems in this country has been its loss of identity. I've just got back from Munich. It was the Oktoberfest and the young men and women were happily dressed in traditional costume. This would never happen in Britain, not because its uncool, but because Britons have almost been denied a cultural identity. They have been told that they are an amorphous cosmopolitan blob. Of course they aren't.

Britons do have a strong identity, but Labour's manipulation of Identity Politics has negated it. As I say. They see the media and politics and it looks like Cabaret. Haven't you heard right on people come onto radio and TV and argue that people coming in don't need to integrate into Britain, because there is nothing to integrate into. What wankers!

The point is this. This dangerous manipulation and abuse of Identity Politics to produce a "cool Britannia" has caused a reaction. While other countries in Europe managed immigration flows, the British government did not. It used immigration as a weapon against inflation and against the wage claims of British white van men.

How many British plumbers, electricians, roofers etc etc do you think were happy with the open doors policy of the British government towards eastern Europe? Very few. It was only the middle classes who admired the Polish handy man's work ethic and cheap labour; the white middle class women who appreciated the Latvian au pair.

Now it's not everyone who has come out in a rash against immigration policies, multiculturalism and equal opportunities. But enough people have reacted to Labour's use of Identity Politics as a fig leaf for its reactionary economic policy, pro-imperialist foreign policy and anti-libertarian control of society in order to put Cameron in number 10.

They are going to make a big mistake if they do so. Its the xenophobia, stupid.

4.10.09

Trekking in South Africa at the turn of the 20th century

Auntie Connie was the first female lawyer in South Africa, and my Grandfather's older sister. She wrote about her experiences as a child with her father, mother and brothers in South Africa as they trekked across the highveld and lowveld. Auntie Connie was married to Uncle Jack and I remember them well. They were two very cheerful, intelligent and positive people, with a large Pretoria family. Here she is recounting his memories to "Loco Voco" published in 1986 and edited by C. C. Callaghan.

* * *

Why on Earth did they do it? What on Earth induced my young parents, who were both members of large, suburban, university-oriented English families, to leave England only two years after my father was appointed science Master at the Dulwich school in London?

What induced the two to set out, toddler in tow, to make a new life three weeks away on a Union Castle liner? Was it the spirit of adventure? Was it a geologist's desire to see what things looked like in situ? Or was it, as Kipling says:

"Because something is behind the ranges, lost and waiting for you - go".

The train journey took three days and three nights, with no accommodation at the end of it. We spent a few nights at a dreadful boarding house where the language in the room next door was so strong it almost set the house on fire.

Two rooms in the Diocesan School for girls (now a little theatre) were found, followed shortly by a small house in the then very remote suburb of Sunnyside.

* * *

We spent six months of every year travelling in a wagon - the most splendid wagon. It was much bigger than any Voortrekker wagon; and you could stand up in it quite easily. The wagon had a large white tent which covered it from front to back and we slept in it most of the time. When my brothers started to arrive we needed an extra tent. We also had another tent for the African staff.

The wagon was normally kept in Pretoria in the yard behind my father's office, a single story, red brick building on the corner of Bosman and Vermelun Streets where the Post Office headquarters are now.

When it was time for my father to go off into the field in the cooler months of the year, the wagon was loaded with any amount of tinned food, since there were no fridges of any sort and into a Cape Cart. If we were going north the wagon was railed to Pietersburg, and if we were going east, it was railed to Middleburg.

The tinned provisions we took with us included: condensed milk, condensed butter, tinned bacon and a variety of other foodstuffs. We also took a big bag of potatoes, tinned cakes, tinned bacon, 2 or 3 bags of mielie meal, a bag of flour and fodder for the mules.

My father needed to plan everything meticulously, since he was not placing his boots into anyone else's footsteps. The country had been stripped by war of the provisions an expedition like my father's might need. Country stores had largely vanished and the ones that remained were poorly stocked. The only shops were properly stocked were the shops owned by Indians and their contribution to the return of normality to post-war Traansvaal cannot be exaggerated.

The Indian shopkeepers were frugal and enterprising and they helped many a farmer through a bad patch with barter - which was an acceptable form of exchange to many of them.

My father worked in the area from Pretoria as far north as Pietersburg and a little further and in the east as far as the Lebombo Mountains and the Mozambiquan border into Swaziland.

When we arrived at Pietersburg or Middleburg it was usually very late at night or very early in the morning and we went straight off to the local hotel to gather everything for the trek. The teams of mules were ordered ahead and provided for by the local establishment. We had 12 mules, spanking beautiful creatures they always were; 10 for the wagon and 2 for the Cape Cart.

Together with our staff of 3 African men and our own house man, who always came with us, we made quite a cavalcade. Our wagon was about 20 feet long and at least 6 feet wide. Then there were my mother and father and our nurse, and of course the growing family of children.

If we travelled 10 to 14 miles a day, we did very well. When we had moved sufficiently, we would look for a shady place with water. For us children the most important thing was to find a large tree with a good bough to take our swing.

Of course we didn't move every day. My father would find a good place and he would work there for about a week, going out on foot with one of the African men and coming back in the evening.

My father took with him the official maps that existed, some fine, but none too accurate - as he found to his annoyance. On these maps he noted down his day's work each evening at a small folding table. He used a series of Higgins inks and an exceedingly fine steel pen, with which he would indicate the geological structures with incredibly fine and steady strokes.

The light that he had to work by was a unique one, shaped like an hourglass. The top half was filled with paraffin in which was set the the metal wick holder. The lower half contained some kind of clockwork mechanism, which was wound up each day to give a most splendid steady light.

After the map reading came the final specimen preparation of the rocks brought back to the camp each day. Each was chipped into a regularly shaped rectangle which he carefully labeled and noted in his diary.

The following day, my father would set out again in a large, wide-awake shaped , drill shirt with long sleeves to protect his arms from the sun, riding breeches tucked into shining heavy leggings, ending in heavy hobnailed boots.

Round his neck he had his field glasses, water bottle, pouch containing pipe and tobacco and his note book. He was a big, strong man, and, except for tick fever, he was never ill. He always used an Alpine stock, probably a relic of his youth when he was an enthusiastic Alpine climber. However, apart from his work, he never did any climbing in South Africa.

Unless the stock of food in the pantry was running low he never carried a firearm in his daily work, although he had a shotgun and a heavy revolver in the wagon - just in case.

We used to love to chew the gum from the Mimosa trees when we were in the Lowveld. If there was a suitable ant-heap near our camp, a slice was cut out from the top to bottom of it and it was hollowed out in the centre to make an oven for baking bread. The most beautiful bread used to come out of ant heap ovens.

If there was no ant-heap available then we would cook in an enormous cast iron pot. I could hardly get my little arms around it, and it was about 10 inches deep.

When my two brothers arrived we gave up the Cape Cart and got a "Spider". This was a four wheeled vehicle which had one seat, but it also had a sort of tray underneath the seat. My father had a cushion made for this and we children sat on it. I can remember mile after mile we used to sit there, with our legs swinging over the edge. We played mouth organs and Jew harps and ate naartjies and oranges - it was wonderful. No child today can have a life that touched ours.

My dolls had to be very small because there was not much space to pack them. Two of my dolls were called Teeny-Wee dolls and they were, like my other dolls, made of China. They were dressed in intricate detail in traditional Austrian costume. These dolls, which were only half the size of my little thumb, were constantly getting lost and my tears and trauma that followed prompted my father to keep them in a matchbox in his waistcoat pocket. In the evening, when he returned home, I would be allowed to play with them.

We would often be woken up at night by the roar of lion, but I was more frightened of fires - we always went out in the driest time of the year and I was terrified of the fires that we could see sweeping over the hills.

I remember one night we were woken up and went to God's Window [a high cliff top in the Lowveld with a view] and looked down at a huge forest fire - a spectacular, but terrifying sight.

I also didn't care much for flooding rivers. and we had some frightening experiences crossing them. One time I remember well, was when we crossed the Blyde River in full spate. The mules were swimming and the water was rushing under the Spider. We had a dog called "Watch", who adored water and he always insisted on swimming across rivers. This day we had to wait for over half an hour for him to come up the bank after he had been swept downstream by the torrent.

When we used to go to Sekkukhuniland in the Middleburg district, my mother and I must have been among the first white females to come through the district because we were objects of much interest. The woman came for miles to stand in a big circle round the camp and watch us. They were particularly amused when my mother combed my long red hair and like all little girls, I complained bitterly when the comb stuck in my tangles.

We sometimes went down the Long Tom Pass, of course tar roads were unknown in South Africa at that time. The road used to be bad often, with big dongas cutting it. We would have to look for rocks or sometimes a suitable tree to cut down to fill those gullies in order to keep the wagon reasonably level.

On one occasion the wagon fell right over whilst I was inside. To prevent this sort of problem my father and mother and all the men all had to stand up with long ropes pulling against the fall of the wagon and to keep it reasonably level as we went of these frightfully handmade efforts at mending roads.

One morning in the Sekhukhuniland, dawn was just about breaking when we were woken up by a peculiar stamping sound, shouting and general hub-bub outside. My father was apprehensive because there had been an uprising in the area. So with his revolver handy, he carefully opened one of the flaps in the wagon.

He saw a large crowd of African men dressed up in paint, dressed in spears, shields, feathers and skins. There were about 50 to 60 people there. And our men were sitting around the fire calmly chatting to some of these fellows!

My father was very worried and he shouted out to our men to find out what was going on. They laughed and said that the local chief's son was coming out of school now, and that these were his friends going out to meet him. They had seen the white chief's camp and had come to greet him.

During his attendance as a South African representative to the Geological Congress in Spain. And my father, as the only French speaking member was selected to sit next to the Queen of Spain at the official banquet. He also attended congresses in Russia and the USA as an official delegate as well as undertaking the total organisation of a congress in South Africa.

My mother was a sterling woman all the way. They formed a vital partnership. They were guides, helpmates, philosophers, friends and helpmates to each other. Their love and concern for a country they made their own, left a rich heritage for South Africans, for generations to come.

The funeral of Heini Göbel


Heini Göbel (on the left) in Die Zwölf Geschworenen

"Look Phil",
said Chris, and he showed me a DVD with Heini on the cover. Chris loaded it up while Lothar, who had just successfully come out of a week long artificially induced coma, talked to me about the best way to kill a wild boar.

"They are clever animals, he said, very clever, and when the full moon is out there is no point in trying to hunt them, they'll see you."

He was showing me pictures of an animal, with long, rough, hazlenut hair, laid out on a forest floor in autumn. The boar was more bear than pig. This is what the big horned old boars looked like in ancient times. Lothar squatted behind the animal, his complexion was rosy then, his body still bulky.

He pointed to the boars testis in the picture; they were swollen up into twin balloons, and said:

- "You can't eat this kind, the flavour is too strong, although some of the local Rumanians do. It's an acquired taste. We were the some of first hunters allowed in after Ceauşescu's, execution."

From the corner of my eye, still listening to Lothar, I can see Heini in 1963, the chairman of the Jury in the German remake of "Twelve Angry Men".

"This is the kind of film we can relate to, isn't it?", Chris said.

There Heini was. He wasn't hamming up. You could see he was a good actor; his performance was powerful, but understated, self-effacing.

At the restaurant, I swapped places with the German administrator of the Staatsschauspiel and sat amongst the actors.

"Heini was a Prima Donna, wasn't he?" I said, winding them up.

"No, no he wasn't", they said.

"Did you do any Shakespeare?", I asked.

"Of course".

"And how about you".

"I played many roles but my most famous was as Lady, Lady; how do you say it in English? - Lady Macbeth."

"You musn't say Macbeth; it is bad luck?", I said.

"Macbeth?"

'There, you said it again. You must refer to it as "the play" don't you have that tradition?'

"About Macbeth?", said the actress.

"Yes. It's very bad luck to mention the name of the play."

"Ah. I see. Well I played the Lady in; "the play", she said.

I was teaching my grandmother to suck eggs and soon they were going to be annoyed enough to boot me off the table -so they booted me off the table.

The last time we came to Munich, Tere and I, we had a big argument in the airport. I insisted on buying Heini a huge kitsch box of Harrod's assorted teas. I did so because, whenever we had chatted to Heini in the past, we always did so over cake and tea. Heini loved tea time.

Tere arranged for me to buy a new suit for the occasion and I then lost her in Oxford Street. We both met up later at home. What an insufferable place Oxford Street is at the moment. Full of people who don't know which side of the pavement to walk down, and who push.

Kate, on the other hand, was going to the funeral in flip flops.

"If you die, I'll wear flip flops to your funeral and flap about on your grave. Formality is pretension, isn't it? Is it?"

"That's OK. Come dressed in a thong, what the hell."

* * *

At the airport I was bending Kate's ear over an expensive cup of coffee.

"Look, the Germans have to face up to what they did in the war and, by and large, they have. Right in town are the signposts to Dachau. It is not strictly a concentration camp, but it is a place that symbolises supreme evil. Imagine taking a trip to work every day and going past the signposts to Dachau.

"Imagine being a young German and going to school and learning about fascist escatology. The Germans are facing up to their past, but where's the slave museum staring at you in the face in Bristol?"

"Actually", Kate said, "there is a slave museum in Bristol."

"Yes, never mind, you know what I mean. We don't have the empire and the slave trade rubbed in our face all the time. Perhaps we should. Perhaps then our government wouldn't have gone into Iraq and Afghanistan. Not only that Kate, but look. This excellent railway system is publically owned and they also know how to treat teachers here."

With the last point, Kate started to warm to the Germans. She and her Tower Hamlet's colleagues have just won a famous victory against cuts. Her management capitulated. But there is nothing about it in the media at the moment because Tower Hamlets College has set a "bad example" to the rest of the public sector. Tower Hamlets and Kate took took on the slash and burners and they won.

* * *

Morning pastries are delicious in Munich. The bread is so good. The six of us sat around and breakfasted in Solln before going to see Rose in Stohr Strasse - a street which none of the neighbours seem to know exists, because it is so small. Heini's house had been one of the first to be built in that part of Solln, in 1948.

We took a taxi to Loretta Platz to the crematorium, come cemetery and bought a quick and pretty basket of flowers at a row of flower shops. Bavarian cemeteries are like a dream of forests - idyllic. The trees are taller than many English trees.

The building was large, well designed and functional. It looked Bauhaus. Square red bricked and functional and we shall quickly draw a post-modernist veil over that, shan't we.

We had to wait our turn and gathered like a hover of crows, as one does, all dressed in black, all except for Kate, and Andy - unshaven in an indigo Paul Smith shirt. The floor of the hall was concrete and the interior reminded me of a church in Brighton which had been built in the same cubit measurements as Noah's arc - a tall box.

At the funeral, we were in the second row. We were behind Rose and Ulla, Renata and Ruth and we listened to the speech and a eulogy: the first was given by the resident Lutheran pastor, a tall thin woman with curly hair and the euolgy was given by the adminstrator of the Munich theatre. The actress read out a poem that was particularly significant to Rose.

Du bist ein schatten am tage

Du bist ein shatten am tage
Und en der nacht ein licht;
Du lebst in meiner klage
Und stirbst in herzen nicht.

Wo ich mein zelft aufschlage
Da wohnst du bei mir dicht;
Du bist ein schatten am tage
Und en der nacht ein licht.

Wo ich auch nach dir frage
find' ich von dir bericht,
Du lebst in meine klage
Und stirbst in herzen nicht.

Du bist ein schatten am tage
Doch en der nacht ein licht;
Du lebst in meine klage
Und stirbst in herzen nicht.

Friedrich Ruckert

There was a huge black curtain, drawn. I placed our little basket in front of it next to the red roses, sunflowers and lillies. Albinoni played, Bach played and then curtain slowly started to close - but caught on our little basket of flowers.

After a while a hand came out from behind the stage and whisked the basket away.


From Eve Hall: Addis Ababa June 1996

Darling Mom,


In a few days, I'll be going out to Ghana. I couldn't phone you today (Sunday) because our phone is out of order. Perhaps Tony managed to make a quick call to you from work - yes, he was in the office all day again today, preparing for the arrival of some journalists who have been invited to Addis to write about the new developments in the ECA [Dad was in charge of restructuring the communications side of the ECA.] - that's the UN's Economic Commission for Africa. I'll try to phone you from my office tomorrow. I've been working all day to, but at home, all kinds of last minute things to do before I leave on Thursday morning.

To had a good birthday - cards and letters from all the family, and two birthday "parties": an impromptu celebration at the office, organised by his cabinet office colleagues, with a cake and presents. And on Thursday night we invited a group of people (mainly To's work colleagues) for dinner at Castelli's, do you remember it? A lovely old wood panelled Italian restaurant, with food as good as you'd get anywhere, and marvellous Piedmontese wine (To had half a glass for the Birthday toast). Really nice, everyone said how much they enjoyed it.

Next on the agenda is the two week trip to Ghana for me, from 20 June to 5 July - I'm going to "The First Global Women Entrepreneurs' Trade Fair" , in Accra. The ILO regional office (in Abidjan) is paying for me to go, along with my old Zambian pal Chuma (she who sent me to Nigeria all those years ago) and we will be setting up the ILO exhibition stand together, most of which will centre round my project. I am taking an entire suitcase of project samples, as well as photographs and other exhibition material and our project film.

I persuaded the Dutch embassy to cover the costs for three of my project people too - so Zelalem (our Project Officer) and the women leaders of the two handicraft groups, Etenesh and Tsehay, will be joining me there a couple of days later. I have never been to Ghana, so I'm quite excited, everyone says it's a lively and interesting place; and I'm hoping that we will get some good export orders for the projects products.

No sooner back to Addis, than off again on 14 July. Our itinerary is: To London on 14 July, we'll arrive in the evening. Then off to Mexico on 18 July (brilliant timing! a day before the Olympics start, when all the world will be bound for that part of the world!). In Mex until 14 August, when we will fly to New York, to stay with Josiah and Catherine Jele for 4-5 days - do you remember him from South Africa - the large Zulu with the French wife? He is now SA ambassador to the UN in New York and they have a wonderful flat in Park Avenue, where they have invited us to stay for a few days; when will we ever get to stay in Park Avenue!

We go from NY to London on 21 August, . I must fly back to Addis on 1 September - unless I have to go to Geneva for a couple of days.

Sadly, we will miss the twins birthdays (though we'll be in Mex for Tere's). But we haven't seen our Mexican beloveds for such a long, long, long time, me especially, NEARLY THREE YEARS! Carmen still a baby then, J.A. not much more than a toddler, and we must get to know our new Eve Julia... so forgive us if we only spend a week with you darling. We have a plan that maybe you could join To and me for a trip, over Xmas and New Year, in Eygpt. It's good weather there then, and we would do the trip in tous comforts.

I am so looking forward to our retirement (or semi, anyway) when we can set our own timetable. We are both pretty work weary, and looking forward so much to the holidays - though there will be a lot of flying, which I don't enjoy (Chris would be disgusted with me if he heard me saying that!).

The rainy season started a month earlier than normal, and the weather is absolutely horrible, rain and damp. But Ghana will be hot and so will Guadalajara, thank goodness. I need some really serious heat in my bones.

Love to Valerie - I hope she got my letter. Take care, look after yourself. I'll phone you as soon as I get back to Addis.

Your Evechen

3.10.09

Teresa and Dad in 2008

2.10.09

Guardian: Andrew Martin is right about the nerds

I was introduced to a Maths lecturer last month:

"She will be teaching introductory maths to the first years - any suggestions for what she should be teaching Phil?" said the director to me facetiously.

And, instead of backing off and deferring to the young bespectacled Chinese woman I said:

"Well, why not teach the history of mathematics as a sort of prelude, just to contextualize your algebra, polynomials, quadratics, calculus and all the rest of it?"

The newly recruited one looked at me as if I was an idiot. So much for that false air of nerdish politeness. Andrew Martin is right. And I get the same shit from my son too. He did extremely well in is A' levels and is now studying medicine and whenever I get into the odd debate on an Andrew Brown's threads he says:

"For God's sake dad, shut up. What do you know about science and biology and evolution? What do you know about maths and physics?"

And of course he shares the attitude of many of these niche scientists.

When I made a Doctoral research proposal a few years back it went across paradigms and that was partly why it was rejected. Expertise and narrow-mindedness seem to go together nowadays. Later on somebody else told me to go ahead and do another version of the doc and now I might, but initially the idea was rejected because it wasn't narrow enough.

And so I told my son, our burgeoning scientist and expert - he saw his first dissection yesterday:

"Listen. I may not know mathematics, but I know about mathematics. I know its history, to some extent and I wish they had taught it to me at school because then I would have been a mathematics fanatic.

"I wasn't interested in Mathematics because, I admit, I wasn't good at it. But I also just did not understand the context in which mathematical work took place. I didn't understand what a leap it was for humanity - for Pythagoras, in fact, to come up with a truth that was abstract and independent of physical reality: the Pythagorean equation"

a squared + b squared = c squared

The 18 year old smiled and said:

"No dad, unless you can do mathematics and have studied evolution and biology you really can't give an informed opinion."


But I think what I was suggesting to the new mathematics lecturer was harmless, and I think that this lecturer overstepped the bounds when she dismissed the idea. She was arrogant:

  1. What is mathematics?
  2. What is the philosophy of mathematics?
  3. What is the meaning of mathematics?

These should all be valid questions for a student of mathematics too. Ethics comes before medicine, and history and philosophy should come before mathematics.

And Andrew Martin is right that some of these nerds are dangerous - not my son of course - because when the city recruited people to create its poisonous financial concoctions it recruited gifted mathematicians and scientists. We were paying our taxes to get scientists and doctors and mathematicians and other productive people but the City was sucking them into its web.

Where were the articles condemning the scientists and mathematicians and all those folk who prostituted themselves to the City for filthy lucre. Bankers, my arse. It was the nerds who really fucked us all over with their complicated offsetting.

A cousin, now unemployed for a while was a good mathematician and arrived at one of these banks (Morgan Stanley I think) and in a day solved a complex financial formula that a team had been working on for months. He was so gung ho about the idea of being able to package and offset risk to such an extent that his bank would actually have financial products to lend to people in the slums of Cape Town.

But let's face it, companies like Morgan Stanley are only in it for the money - Muhammad Yunus they ain't. And that became very obvious during the credit crunch. Noone talks about extending credit to the poor in these institutions now.

In conclusion, people with highly decontextualised, highly specialised expertise, often ignore the context and the impact of their specialism and moreover, in defending their niches they have to step outside them into areas where they are no longer the experts and when they do so, they demonstrate their irrationality and unwarranted arrogance.

29.9.09

Makonde embrace

Heini died last Thursday at 5pm and so we are off to his Funeral in Munich tomorrow. I have to go into Oxford Street to buy a dark suit for the ceremony. He is the last of Mom's whole family apart from two cousins - and the 16 of us, of course. Rose needs our support so we go there to hold her hands in Loretta Platz.

* * *

Oliver Tambo airport has been completely renovated. It looks very impressive. Dad and Mom would have been proud of it.

Pam picked me up and after shopping in the Chinese part of town, took me back to her wonderful flat with its amazing views of Northern Johannesburg and Pam keeps the doors of the large veranda open. We just missed the beginning of the rains. Every beautiful Tsutska and piece of art with a story attached to it. Ortega's chairs, the king of Libya's samovar.

I loved the Makonde sculptures with hundred of figures in either ivory or ebony embracing each other asleep. Khamiles little shoes all lined up - there was a little desk in her weekend drawing and painting corner.


Pam kindly spoke to me a lot about the old days. Apparently around and about there were at least three different sets of people who used to gather together: there were the teenagers: Toni, Barabara, Pam, Ilse, and so on. Then there was the slightly older generation; the Turoks, Benjamins, Levys, Marius Schoon, Fischers, Slovos, Helen Joseph etc. In fact, come to think of it, all these people are intertwined in memory - like the figures in a Makonde carving, but most of them awake, and with their eyes open.

And then there were Mom and Dad's lot. They were independent, post university people like Costa Gazides, who were in the middle and their house was one of the movement houses with ANC and COD people washing in and out. The first time Pam heard the Internationale sung was in Nelly road and apparently dad always kept a pot of tomato sauce on the boil which went onto sphagetti, pizza, chicken - everything. Mom and Dad's house in Nelly Road was also a safe haven for racial mixing. To Gerald Ludi, who betrayed them all to the police, the parties were orgiastic- Dionysian. I imagine there must have been an element of that. Peoples held artificially apart, coming together around him when the state kept them apart.

I wondered why I had not taken the time to read some of these books on the struggle before. Perhaps it was because the names and people were such a part of my youth that I felt I knew the history of that time, when I didn't.

I found some of the books harrowing - especially Bandeit, which is a fantastic book. It is Hugh Lewin's story of his seven years in the "Cold Stone Jug" of Pretoria hanging jail (Hugh gave Dad's Eulogy). Mom was lucky. Her sentence was six months, she had a nervous breakdown in jail and was let out early and then they left to post-independence Kenya.

After her conference Teresa came to join us and we went out to Pam's favourite Chinese restaurant. Crispy deep fried fish balls. It was inside a large, gated mall.

The next day I went to pick up a hire car at the Hyatt Regency and looked at the map and saw that Mom's old school, Kingsmead, was just in front of the hotel. I went outside but I couldn't see her school because they are building a new underground system in time for the 2010 world cup and it obscured the view. Soon we were on our way. We stopped at Millies for frozen trout pies and then arrived in the late afternoon.























Photo by Karin Lewis

Millies Trout Restaurant in the Lowveld

The house looks exactly as it did when mom and dad were there. Tere got a bit weepy. Nomsa was there. Gazani and Ponani came by to say hi. Everyone very relieved that Dale is around at Matumi, writing his book.

We left a message for Harry Voight, but no response, so he probably wasn't in. I felt the presence of Mom and Dad very strongly. Someone had cleared their stone and Nomsa had placed two orange daisies there. It was as if they were there, somewhere, in Matumi.

Tere spent a lot of time watering bits of the garden and I spent a lot of it reading lots of books written by mom and dad's friends: Ronnie Kasrils, Hilda and Rusty Bernstein, Jean Middleton, Allister Sparks, Dale, Patrick Bond about the Rivonia trial and the transition. I also gathered up some important documents.

It was bright. It was beautiful. It was quiet- except for the birds. Tere saw a duiker and its little foal. There were monkeys. The baboons hid and cracked branches in the bushes at night, scaring us. The bush was very dry, but allowed views of mountains in front, to the sides, to the back. I swam in the pool and it was ice cold, littered with insects and dried blossoms.

On the way back I was thinking of Mom and Dad's best friend at their wedding. One of their oldest and dearest best friends: Geoff, a literature professor. They had seen him at a party but as they drove home along the road they saw his body and the body of his family covered in sheets on the road. The car had been sideswiped by a lorry. They told me about it. He was the best man at our wedding, what does it mean. And I could say nothing, but the silly lines came into my head from the Doors. I might even have spoken them:


I had thought about that line a lot at one point in my prolonged adolescence. There is nothing you can say about such a tragedy.

We wanted to stop at Joan Mary's and Pat's, but the roadworks were terrible and so we decided not to and were right, because the journey took 5 1/2 hours and not 3 1/2. Tere got off two hours before me. It was a comfortable flight. But they offered a choice of the Times or the Daily Mail, which lowered the tone.
Tomorrow its EasyJet from Gatwick and I am taking what remains of Mom and Dad's ashes to be buried on the edge of the Black Forest in Soln in a family braid: Richard, Lisa, Wilhelm, Heini, Carolin, Tony and Eve.

Reading list:

Armed and Dangerous, Ronnie Kasrils
Bandeit, Hugh Lewin
A Woman Political Prisoner Remembers, Jean Middleton
The World that was Ours, Hilda Bernstein

I'll add to the list when I have time

22.9.09

Back in 5 days

I'm off to South Africa this evening. I'll be back in 5 days.

20.9.09

Authors as mediums and buffs


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Take the case of Tarantino. Tarantino started out as a film buff immersed in film. He obsessed, and the films he directs are not simply "homages", they don't merely make references to the films he likes, his films are authored by the films that formed him. It is not particularly original to say this, but it is interesting to reflect on the idea.

In fact the central plot line of "Kill Bill" is almost completely plagiarised from an earlier film, right down to the scene where the heroine escapes from a wooden casket. Of course Tarantino has his heroine escape using Kung Fu.

Take another example, that of Bob Dylan. He was a Tarantino of sorts. Robert Zimmerman was a music buff, an obsessive and a fan of Woody Guthrie. In fact he was also a rather sinister mythomane. He went to Woody Guthrie, immobilised and dying, in order to help himself get anointed as a folk singer. Imagine Mark Chapman singing John Lennon his songs as Lennon died. Dylan had the politics of a young bourgeoisie suburbanite, but by taking advantage of Guthrie on his death bed he acquired a veneer of 1930s-40s social activism.

In a programme about the Civil Rights movement a black women protester says something along the lines of:

"How could this little white boy write songs that my father could sing while working on the plantations in Georgia?"

She is mystified. But there is no mystery. Captain Beefheart said:

"Give me any song of Dylan's and I'll tell you where he took it from."


And I had that experience too. I opened a book of old British folk songs and found, almost word for word, a famous "Bob Dylan song" there.

Of course, Dylan has written some of the best songs, and Tarantino has made some good films. Dylan says: "I believe in the songs." but "I don't know where they come from." Well, mystery solved. Here is an example of the text as author. The text spoke through nerdy white suburbanites like Tarantino and Dylan and authored further texts, using Dylan and Tarantino as mediums.

Of course this process of authorship becomes clearer in translation itself, as my friend suggests, where it is the effect of the original text that authors the new translated text. The reader then contributes to the process of the creation of the new material. The text is also the author.

So let's move on to Pushkin. Pushkin wrote the great play: "Mozart and Salieri", later somewhat bowdlerised by Peter Shaffer as "Amadeus". In this play the reason why Salieri kills Mozart, the buffoon (have you read his whining letters to his father?) is not because Salieri is Jealous or because Mozart desecrates the divinity of his own music with his levity and scatological wit.

The point, according to Salieri is that the innovativeness of Mozart's work threatened the foundations of a musical edifice: the hard work of centuries. Mozart's musical insights were a cruel and almost accidental conduit of the divine threatening the architecture of music - Masonic themes emerge.

But Pushkin's Salieri was wrong because Mozart was actually a product of that architecture. He was deeply immersed in music by a father very keen to exploit his talent and his sister's. To begin with, the music was its own author through the boy.

Another example: For many, Octavio Paz in "The Labyrinth of Solitude" was speaking with insight about the heart of a Mestizo Mexican identity, but he wasn't really. To say that Mexicans are the way they are because of the traumatic rape of the "Indian mother" by the "Spanish father" is highly contentious. Paz was involved in creating a Mexican identity. He was not a truthful observer he was a confectionist of Mexican identity.

Authors are the mediums and confectioners, DJs and editors of existing culture, and "the text" is often the true author. Bob Dylan knew nothing about working in the cotton fields or about going to war, but the songs he listened to generated the songs and that he "trusted", and they did contain the experiences of people who both worked and fought.

16.9.09

A meeting with a kind professor

I've just had a long meeting with a professor of German at the University and in a short space of time he explained many things to me in addition to translating several letters from the period of the war and the period just prior to the war.

I didn't know that both families were in touch with each other. I didn't know that Heini was such an important go between in the whole affair. I didn't know that the Prague ghetto was even worse in some cases than the Warsaw ghetto and that Regine was living with all her important possessions taken away from her in a ghetto with very little food and certainly no protein.

Regine confided to Heini, forbidding him to tell Else or Lisa that she was in such a desperate situation. She was considering suicide because it was so bad. Pathetically, she offers to help Heini. "Some things are available here which you might need." she says, and sends Heini and Caroline her bedding and a few other things. Carolin is 67. She berates God and given the depth of sorrow he would have to look down upon she doubts he exists all.

"We have to face things with Stoicism. We have to face what life presents us with, but my courage is not equal to this situation.", she says, and she questions: "Why do we humans clasp onto life when it is so debased? If I had the courage I would commit suicide but I don't have the courage. Please don't tell the children this."

And then she apologises profusely for having importuned Heini and says that in her brief meeting with him and Carolin Göbel she realises that they are noble people and that they have their own problems too.

It's hard to read this, but it was a million times harder to live it. The professor told me that Theresienstadt was the "model" concentration camp. But Treblinka, says my colleague and friend who curated a holocaust museum, was a charnel house where people were burned alive.

My great Grandmother was terrified by what was happening to her. Heini, who met her just before she was taken away said that she was full of extreme anxiety - shaking with it. And then they took her away and did all the horrible things they threatened to do to her and millions of others.

And when my mother talked about God it was very simple; she echoed her Grandmother's words who implored God to help her, but at the same time doubted that a God could ever exist. "How could there be a God when he permits such suffering? It's not possible to have a good God who can allow this to happen" she says.

My Catholic wife tells me: Why torment yourself about the past. It doesn't matter to these people now. They are in heaven. That's what we believe. That's where they deserve to be. And I really don't understand that reaction.

15.9.09

Mike Hall: the closest thing to a Guru


Eve and Richard Steinhardt 1976


Institution de la Porte du Parc, Eve Steinhardt and friend




Halls in India with Grandpa and Granny


Dad in 2007


Heini was drafted into the Wehrmacht in 1944


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Heini, acting in Hamburg and Munich, said that he made a joke on stage that was interpreted my someone present as being directed against the Nazis and so he was immediately drafted.
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"Did you fight Heini?" We asked.
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"No my dears, I spent the whole of the war running away from the Russians."
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On a long trip up the Danube with Lisa and Rose. Heini told them how he had tried to get onto a boat to cross the Elbe and everyone was panicking and a German army officer forced him off this boat at gun point.
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He was captured by the Americans and apparently they treated their prisoners of war abominably. Heini was part of a delegation of soldiers that were so fed up with their treatment that they demanded to be sent over to the Russian prisoner of war camps. He was lucky the Americans didn't agree to that particular demand.

Arthur Steinhardt in the first World War


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Doesn't Arthur, Richard's brother, look a little like the Good Soldier Schweik? He was far to serious for that, I think.

Children bearing up well while mothers are in jail


Eve and Tony Hall at Matumi in 2006


The British Trade Unions and the Left should form a new political party we can vote for.

Cuts are New Labour's death warrent...

...so why don't the British Trade Unions help to start a new political party?

When Brown announced that his government intended to introduce cuts today he was aligning himself with the Tories and effectively signing New Labour's death warrent. Using the gloss of identity politics and invoking Labour's old traditions will not fool the electorate for much longer. New Labour and the Conservatives work for the same people.

Polly Toynbee is wrong. There is no any time left to make a clear distinction between the Tories and Labour. They are both clearly following the same agenda. After Gordon Brown's speech to the unions, to highlight the differences between the parties mere pedantry.

There is no way anyone who is even vaguely socialist can vote for Labour now unless Labour has a leadership election and gets rid of Brown and sidelines all the New Labourites.

If Labour is willing to go down the road of cuts to public services this basically means that they will continue to privatise. They will carry on farming out as much of the NHS as possible to private contractors. They want to put more of the state education system into private hands. The academies are a case in point.

In fact New Labour and the Tories want to farm out the whole state sector to private contractors - one way or another. They are using the problem of the deficit to justify their proposed actions. Making cuts to public services is not really a fully coherent or thought out response to the "Credit Crunch" or the problem of the reduction of the deficit; the strategy to cut and "make the public sector more efficient" hides this agenda: the complete takeover of the state by the private sector.

The state sector represents a quarter of GDP and private companies want to get their hands on as much of all that natural monopoly dough that flows through it as possible. The New Labour and Conservative plan is to slim the state down and transform it into one big regulatory body that sets the rules for all the tens of thousands of parasitical contractors. The government will make its cuts by handing over taxpayers' money to private contractors so that these can cream off as much as possible, fail to reinvest adequately and use public services as monopoly cash cows.

As a result the state will probably be able to lower taxation because we will end up paying so much more upfront for public services.

What we are talking about is a strategy to create a country where taxation is low and public services are expensive. In other words, create a country that is a paradise for the rich, the richer and the extremely rich. The well off have less need of public services and they benefit from lower income tax. With the least possible amount of wealth redistribution and the private sector making money hand over foot from natural monopolies, we will have a country in the worst possible taste.

And that's what is at the heart of Gordon Browns cuts. The strategy is what it always was: to make us as an attractive a capitalist entrepot as possible which means pushing down wages to their minimum, cutting down on the public sector, lowering taxation and refusing to legislate or control the markets.

Which of you believe that New Labour will introduce stringent new regulation to control the money markets? Of course they won't.

Seamus Milne says that in his speech today to the trade unions: "Brown pressed every button to sweeten the pill" Of course he did - he invoked every cosmetic difference possible to make a distinction between the Tories and New Labour. The cosmetics of identity politics and Labour Party tradition. But it won't wash:

In fact what the Trade Unions really should do is give up on New Labour, get together with left wingers inside the party and other progressive forces in society to form a new political party, because, let's face it, the Trade Unions are going to have to to spend the next 5 years fighting either Tory or New Labour cuts tooth and nail.

I really have to think who I am going to vote for in the general election. Never Tory, never New Labour and not the Liberal democrats. If the Trade Unions and the left started up a new political party it would enfranchise me and enfranchise many other people in Britain in the same quandry.

That would give me an electoral choice for a start - and a lot of other people too.

13.9.09

Coming to a halt in Nainital


Photo by Susmita Chatterji

We arrived in New Delhi in January when the weather was still mild, and the three of us had to adapt to a new school: The British School.

Mom and dad quickly became friends with the ANC representatives in New Delhi: Aggie, Mosie and Zubie. We got to know the Msimang kids and my brothers became firm friends with Fabian.

When you teased Fabian he didn't laugh, he just smiled, stood up straight, feet planted slightly apart, and looked right back at you with a fist under each bicep.

The twins were 13 and more adventurous than I. With our parents' approval, they travelled with Fabian all over town. Fabian knew the ropes and they tried all the different kinds of street food together without falling ill.

But the twins were a bit girlish; their voices hadn't broken and their long hair was turning from light brown to straw blond in the sun, so Fabian found himself protecting them from the seedy, bottom pinching men that there always are on crowded buses. He probably stared them down too - smiling.

How difficult it is to make sense of the world and your place in it when you are 15. On the bus Nicola, a plump Sophia Loren look-alike, pointed at me and said loudly: " I'm not going to sit next to him." and I thought: "Why does she make such a fuss?" and "Why am I so embarrassed?"

Moving to New Delhi from Nairobi made growing up even more difficult and complicated. During my first few months in India I just stared out of windows - that's probably why I irritated Nicola - because my attention wasn't on her bust. I was passively absorbed with the challenge of comprehending where the fuck I had ended up:

Lajpat Nagar, Safdarjung, Quatab, Minar, Chandigarh, Maharani Bagh, Jamna. Lajpat Nagar, Safdarjung, Quatab Minar, Chandigarh, Maharani Bagh, Jamna. Lajpat Nagar, Safdarjung, Quatab Minar, Chandigarh, Maharani Bagh, Jamna.

By late June it was so hot that after school we rarely went out at all. We stayed at home keeping to our air conditioned rooms. To get cool, our pie dog plastered his hairy body against the air vents, bared his teeth and panted wolfishly. Perhaps one of the most familiar sensations for anyone who lives in northern India during the summer, is the unpleasantness of having to move constantly between refrigerated spaces. I would open my bedroom door, cross four feet of rippling heat haze, then re-enter the deep freeze of another bedroom. Lots of people catch colds this way.

There was the promise of a trip to the hills. As soon as Mom and Dad finished writing up their reports on Kerela and Bihar off we would go. The choice was of Simla or Nainital and they chose Nainital, because it was closer, only 300 kilometres away via Meerut, and because the journey looked more interesting. And because they had read The Man Eaters of Kumaon.

We got up early, two hours before dusk, and drove off in Padma, our long wheel base Landrover, but the heat caught up with us shortly after dawn. We were submerged in it. Dad accelerated towards the hills as the sun rose higher and the rubber wheels hummed against the rough asphalt.

Towards late afternoon, the countryside slowly emptied of people and the vehicle started to climb. We reached pine forest at about 3 pm. The trees were ash-brown closer to the plain, but greened as we rose.

Mom and Dad had chosen the route which bordered the Jim Corbett National Park and the road was dangerous. It hadn't been repaired since the last monsoon. We were negotiating a curving track that was barely wider than the Landrover itself and from back right hand side window all we could see was the bouncing horizon.

In front, and on the left, we saw evidence of rock falls and mom got increasingly nervous. Then we came to a place where part of the road had actually fallen away. It seemed impassable. But the thought that we would have to return to the heat of the plain made dad determined and it was now about 6.00 and night was approaching.

We got out. Dad engaged 4 wheel drive and revved forwards, The Landrover's front wheels tilted in the dip, the car righted itself. The back wheels and back of the car tilted right. Then the vehicle was level again, and on the other side of the broken track.

After about 40 minutes more, we saw lake Nainital as the light fell. It was far down in the valley. The lake looked a little like a damm and at the far end it seemed to be tipping a trickle of its dark waters into air.

It took us some time to get to the hotel and it was night when we arrived. We stopped and got out and smelled woodsmoke. It was large and form the time of the colony, and mostly made of wood and we were among the only guests there.

By now it was dark, and we found a restaurant where we ordered sandwiches and It was actually cold enough to wear the soft woollen jerseys mom had brought. They were playing billiards in the restaurant and so we played too, and I can still hear the clicks of the balls and see the green baize. With the sandwiches they served us tea sweetened with condensed milk.

The following day we rested, but in the afternoon my brothers and I heard music. We found a concert hall where inside they were playing rocky Bob Dylan covers. The band was called “Waterfront”. They were playing to an empty hall. The three of us sat down there to listen to them.

For five days we ate together, walked through the forest and My brothers and I listened to the band and as we did so all the heat and confusion seeped out of us and little by little we came to a halt. The hotel was empty, the concert hall was empty the hill station was empty and we too soon emptied and stilled right down.

Shanti, Shanti, Shanti

Amateur video of Nainital

Capitalism decoupled identity politics from socialism

Mephistophelean associations with New Labour

In return for small concessions many single issue campaigners have collaborated with a right wing, pro-market, anti-libertarian and pro-imperialist government.

What was that awful religious metaphor for the human soul I read once? That the human soul is a diamond and that the diamond is covered in dung and that what people do as they accumulate detritus, is that that instead of getting rid of it, they paint it over with shiny varnish to make the bolus look pretty.

Well, New Labour is a reactionary pro-market, oppressive, and even murderous, government which has managed to conserve the appearance of being progressive for many years by using the false veneer of identity politics.

New Labour has used feminism, gay rights, multiculturalism and equal opportunities legislation to coat its reactionary bolus of policies and strategems. It has used these progressive causes as a varnish to disguise the fact that it is essentially right wing, pro-capitalist, anti-libertarian and pro-imperialist.

We know this, but it bears repeating, that New Labour co-opted people from all these identity politics niches, into supporting its market oriented economics its oil wars and government on behalf of the corporates - especially the US corporates. New Labour confused its the natural socialist constituency of Labour with tokenism to such an extent that many of actually us, now, hate identity politics and their groupings of issue based politically lobotomised people, as the prime refuge for most hypocritical scoundrels in British politics.

Identity politics is the perfect cover for careerists and opportunists. Many of us hate the way identity politics has been used to actually replace social justice. Think of the feminists like Harman who supported the war in Iraq and the increase in tuition fees and all the rest of it in return for Blair and Brown's identity politics wergeld.

We have gay, feminist, equal opportunity cabals in government that are essentially reactionary one issue wonders. Multiculturalism and feminism and even gay rights have been tainted by their Mephistophelean association with New Labour.

People see the media reflection of a modern cosmopolitan, tolerant multicultural, multi ethnic multi religious Britain and it means New Labour to them. It means nothing to them. because the victory of identity politics is associated with the victory of corporate capitalism, of managerialism in our society.

This is Obama's victory; the victory of identity politics and yawning failure awaits.

The Guardian, of course, is partly responsible for this betrayal. It has never been a socialist newspaper - look how easily some of its columnists are veering right at the moment and supporting Cameron. The Guardian as the intellectual flagship of the broad left has been partly responsible for pushing identity rights agendas, such as feminism, willy nilly, (so to speak), and at the expense of real democracy, peace, anti-imperialism, social justice, workers rights, liberty, and wealth redistribution. Identity politics has been decoupled from the struggle for social equality.

We have ended up with a casino market economy. The casino economy remains untouched, even after the credit crisis. But under New Labour we comfort ourselves with the fact that in this casino economy the glass ceiling for women has been raised and now, women who are unfairly dismissed in the City have redress.

9.9.09

Scooters, Boullabaisse, goosebumps and a party


Five months or so after this letter was written
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Mom is just 22 and just married and just two months pregnant, (but she doesn't know it). This is the first time she has really been apart from her mother and father and she sounds so enthusiastic about being on her own with dad, but neither of them really know how to work it.
She writes long letter after long letter to Lisa and Richard while she and dad are in Cape Town. This is one letter of many.
Dad is 23 and taking a course in journalism. Mom mentions Marius Skoon. Is that THE Marius? I am pretty sure it is. Mom's old letters are so newsy and fresh and upbeat a wonderful tonic for anyone who reads them.



19, Trianon,

Ave. Marseilles,

Sea Point,

Cape Town.

22/4/59


Darling Mom and Dad,

I've just got your letter telling me about Frame, and it's very exciting. I hope something came out of it. And I can tell you one thing, that if you live in Paarl, as soon as possible, To and I are going to live in Cape Town too. We were just saying yesterday, that it would be marvellous if we could make our permanent home here . After going overseas for a few years To could get a transfer to the Cape Argus, and the whole family would settle in the Cape. I'm sure we'd be so happy here. I know I always say that South Africa is no place to bring up children, especially now, but what I really mean is the Transvaal. Somehow you don't feel that sense of unease. Things seem calm and settled here, and quite honestly, I don't think either the non-Europeans or the whites bother much about anything down here. They just get along together quite happily. There is that feeling anyhow and I love it. The only real snag is that the Argus isn't a very good paper. Terribly provincial and rather dull. I don't know whether the beauty of Cape Town would compensate for that. Anyway, I'm dying to know what happened. I suppose if you write today I'll get the letter on Saturday at the earliest. Maybe you'll be excited. If you DO go down to Paarl we'll shoot up there as soon as we've heard the news and see what the town is like and I'm holding thumbs hard.

I'm glad you found some friends down at the Oyster Box. Just right for both of you. You must both be bursting with health, after all that food, sleep, sport and sun. But be careful with the sudden change to that highveld cold!

The weather here is a dream. Cool, but not cold, and one brilliant sunny day after another. Touch wood, not a hint of rain.

And now for my news here. The most exciting thing is that we bought a second hand scooter for £55-0-0 ! A chap at the school bought one and To and another boy, Carl, the one who has got his M.Sc., went with him to collect it. Carl has also got a scooter, which he's had for years while he was at university at Stellenbosch. Anyway, just on the off-chance, To asked the man at the garage whether he knew of a good second hand scooter, and the man told him about this one, which he said was in excellent condition. So To and Carl went to see it and, and Carl said it was a very good buy, as it was even better than his. It's only done six thousand miles, and there is hardly a scratch on it. The only thing that we will have to buy for it is a shield, as that stops the rain a bit. Carl showed To how to drive it, and To is already quite alright on it. He's getting out a learners license today, and going for the test next week.

Please Mom could you send me my driver's license, as they give you a scooter license very easily. To's going to teach me this weekend, it's such a thrill! To's like a child with a new toy. So proud of it. I don't know what kind it is. I know it's got a cruising speed of 40 miles per hour in top gear, and three gears and that it takes the hill up to our flats quite easily, though I don't know if it will when they're two people on it.

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To was the nearest but he coaxed me down to the sea, and we sat on the rocks and ate jelly beans, and fought about whether the tide was in or out.

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I haven't ridden with To yet, because I felt he should get the hang of it without the pillion passenger, so I've been going on Carl's scooter, when Carl goes with us in the evening. Last night I had Carl to supper (Marrow bones, stew, mashed potatoes and baked apples - good huh?) and afterwards we went for a ride to Camps Bay. On the way back we went to the Clifton Hotel and had drinks, and talked for hours. My duffle coat is a blessing, it doesn't let a whiff of wind in. The only thing that got a bit cold were my knees! It really is glorious to have that little thing. They are such fun. The only thing is that when they tried to teach me to start it yesterday I could hardly hold the thing up, and as for jumping vigorously on the starter, and opening up the throttle, and holding it all up at the same time....Goodness knows if I'll ever be able to manage it. I had no idea I was such a frail delicate creature! But I was having the giggles and it was dark, so maybe if I really set my mind to it and I can see what I am doing I'll be able to manage. Because we planned t=it that I'd have the scooter during the week for shopping etc., while To will only have when he particularly needs it. I'm scared it's going to be like riding a bicycle.............

Apart from that , I've been very busy. We've been out almost every night. On Wednesday, we went down to Sea Point to try and see the Bardot film. That time we went to see "Tunnel of Love" we wanted to go to it, but it was sold out. So on Wednesday we'd decided to go down early. But what with one thing and another, we didn't get down there very early and we missed getting seats. So we went to see "A Night to Remember", which was alright.

Thursday we decided to try again, and sure enough, two people just before us got the last seats. I was so frustrated I felt like murdering someone and of course To was the nearest but he coaxed me down to the sea, and we sat on the rocks and ate jelly beans, and fought about whether the tide was in or out. I must tell you that it is our stock joke at the moment. Every time To looks out to sea he says "the tide's coming in" and after about five minutes he decides it's going out, and then we start fighting. I always hope the tide's going out, because To's got a passion for sitting on the rocks and he just scorns my fears, and I have visions of us being cut off from land by the incoming tide and being found by fishermen three weeks later. Sometimes I think To should have married one of those horsey types, that aren't afraid of ANYthing. He doesn't appreciate my feminine squeals one bit. He just drags me along, in spite of my tears and entreaties! All he has got to do is give me a hearty slap on the back and say "come on old girl", and there will be a divorce in the family.

Friday night Philip Wymore took five of us to the docks, to a restaurant there. Philip is the 35 year old at the school. He is a widower with a fourteen year old daughter, who's at school in England. Philip himself is English, and has only been here about eight months. He's really a terrific character. He is a part-time lecturer at Cape Town University, he's got his own program on the S.A.B.C. he plays the piano (jazz) for recordings and he's played the piano for the S.A.B.C. symphony orchestra in several piano concertos. His hobby is spanish dancing, and he teaches that at a studio three times a week. He's just doing this course because he feels that journalism will help him in radio work. To us little country bumpkins he's really wonderful, and the nice thing about him is that he doesn't give himself airs, and feels quite at home even in the company of 18 year olds. He's most interesting to talk to, and very good company, but very nervy.

Well, he took us to the Harbour Cafe, which is a place which specialises in sea foods, and Portuguese food. It is a very ordinary looking place, just like a greek shop, but the food is delicious. We bought some white wine and To had Boullabaisse while most of us had crayfish piri-piri which is absolutely gorgeous, but hot. Whew! During the Boullabaisse, the waiter broke a galss, and about two minutes later To found a bit of glass in his soup. He was sure he had swallowed some and kept clutching his throat in the most dramatic manner, but that didn't stop him from having another Boullabaisse and the most enormous plate of king prawns I've ever seen. After supper we went to Philip's cottage which is really charming, though rather arty, mah deah. And there old To put on some Jose Greco, and Philip gave us a very unsteady exhibition of spanish dancing, while Derek who is only eighteen and has lead a very unsophisticated life which never included crayfish or wine, was sick in the bedroom. Dave, another reporter at the school, and To tried to imitate Philip, with much shouting and stamping, while Carl just lay. I read a recipe book!

AS was to be expected, at about three o'clock To put a big foot on my stomach as he climbed out of bed, and I heard the most terrible retching noises coming from the bathroom. I blush to say this, but all I did was turn over and go back to sleep! I didn't turn a hair. But of course I know that whenever we went out and ate, like at Paul's wedding, and at the Finger's anniversary, he goes mad and eats the most enormous amount and spends half the night being sick.

Saturday we did absolutely nothing at all. The luggage came and we tried to put it away and everything was a dreadful mess. On Sunday it was such a beautiful day that we put on summer clothes and our swimming costumes. By the time we got down to the beach, there was a cold wind and we felt awful fools as people went past in thick woolen jerseys, while To clutched the towels to his chest and his legs went all goose-pimply! We bought a few rolls, and ham, and pickled cucumbers and ate in gloomy silence until we saw the funny side of it. Luckily Philip came past in his car and gave us a lift before we had time to get gloomy again, and so we sat in our cosy, untidy room, and even when I got the liver to make liver and chips and found that the liver had gone bad and that there were no eggs in house we stayed cheerful, and had chips and fried tomatoes, and were blissfully happy.


To had invited all the reporters and ( if they could find any ) their girls, so on Monday I went down to town, and bought rice and stewing meat, and cream cheese etc. and started making liptauer and things. I had planned to make curry and rice, but when I tried to cook the meat, I didn't know how to start, even though the coloured girl had told me how to make curry. I'd bought terrible meat, at 1/6 the pound and I just cut it up and put it in boiling water and it smelled JUST like the dogs meat at home, and a horrible scum floated on top so I threw the whole bloody thing away. 7/6! Afterwards someone said I should have fried the meat and put it in cold water, and that the 1/6 meat was probably horse meat anyway.


The party was a roaring success. There were only three other girls and about twelve boys, but that didn't seem to matter, somehow. It really was great fun, and at one o'clock I made scrambled eggs and toast, which cleaned us out of eggs, and we all sang and one chap brought a banjo, and I expected the neighbours to descend on us with knives and axes, but they seem to be a tolerant lot, and I swore again I'd never moan at those people who have singing parties again.


The mess yesterday was something quite phenomenal. I nearly committed suicide when I saw it. But somehow I managed, and still had a reserve of energy left to decide that I would cook To a decent meal for a change. Which was just as well, because he turned up with Carl and Graham for supper! We had just enough except I had to pretend that I didn't like marrow on toast, which nearly killed me because you know how I love it, and I couldn't stand the sight of those three guzzling, so I went to the kitchen until they finished. And there were only three baked apples, so To and I had to share one and I was still bloody hungry when we had finished! Luckily we still had a mountain of liptaur left!


After supper Graham went away ( thank God - To can't stand him, and only asked him because he asked Carl in front of him and To says Graham spoiled his whole supper - I must say To behaved badly. Refused to say one word, and looked murderous and when he helped me clear the dishes said in a loud voice "Christ, I can't stand it", but I just kicked him and tried to be very sweet. ) As I was saying, after supper, we went for that long drive I told you about, and came home tired, but the proud owners of a vehicle.


I must go into town now, as we have got no lav paper, and I've been using To's scrap book for the last two days and he's getting mad. And Mom, if you think that To washes the dishes you're mistaken. The old bastard's acting more and more like a Steinhardt everyday! I am always exhausted by the time he leaves in the morning! I have to run and get him this, and that and, and where's my book, and what happened to the newspaper....Grrrr!


We met an old friend of ours here, Marius Skoon, who was at school with little Tony, and did law last year at Wits. He failed his exams, and is now working with a publishing firm. I hope he is going to get me a morning job, with some political organisation, but don't get scared dad I won't mix myself up in anything, and I'll just work for a salary, and that's all. I have also started advertising in the Argus for pupils for french, whom I'll have to take here in the afternoons and evenings, so that I'll be able to cook. Should be fun! To put the advertisement in the paper today.


And now I must go. I am really holding thumbs down about Frame. Give my love to all our friends, and especially the dogs. Keep well and don't overwork. All my love, hugs and kisses,



your ever loving



Evechen

La France Perfide et Pétain

After Richard's fortuitous meeting with an old school friend on a train out of Prague, he was given the offer of a job and escape. He took Lisa and Babylein to London one month before war broke out. From London he was to go to South Africa to work for United Machinery Ltd. on the export side. In London they met Paula and Else. Else decided to come back with Eve and Lisa and they got onto the ferry at Dover and Richard waved them goodbye. He waved until he saw the white boat reach land in Calais and watched as it docked.

Later, after the liner to South Africa had arrived in Laurenco Marques, and Richard, six months later, was still there, he wrote a twelve-page close typed letter full of self recrimination. I asked Peter, a colleage of mine who speaks excellent German, to translate it for me and he was quite disturbed as he read it.

"I feel I am intruding." he said. "This is the letter of a desperate man."

For paragraph after paragraph, line after line, Richard cries:

"How could we have known the war would go on. We all thought it would end in a few short months. I thought it would end in a few short months and I would see you and Babylein. I love you and Babylein and I don't know what will become of you and if I will see you again and I am sorry, so sorry and if I don not see you again I will not want to live and..." and endlessly Grandpa Richard repeats himself.

" This is the letter of a man in utter desperation," said Peter, troubled by my grandfather's sad raving.

Else lived with Lisa and little Eve for a year and a half. But Else was quite garrulous, and unfortunately she had boasted to neighbours previously that she was proud of her Jewish identity. She did this despite the fact that Lisa with Eve clutching her hand by her side, had told her to hush and be quiet about it. Else's charming sincerity and blustering of youth now became a liability.

Eve's world until she was 5 had two important people in it. Granny and Else. When the edict for Jews to wear a yellow star came out there was nothing Else could do but pin it on. Everyone knew. But Granny refused to pin a star on Eve despite the fact that all half Jewish children and adults were told to wear them. And there was an argument, which mom must have witnessed and Else said:

"Eve should wear one too. She should learn to be proud of her Jewish heritage"

And Lisa said, "Not on my life. What absolute nonsense. I'll do nothing of the sort."

The result of this conversation, was that Else had to leave, because by living with Lisa and Eve increasingly she incriminated them. Everyone in the block of flats knew about her and that she was a Jewish Viennese opera singer and granny had to lie very loudly about Eve's parentage and say that Else was merely a lodger and so Else looked for a way out in 1941 and left to stay at a guest house in town sacrificing herself to protect Eve and Lisa.

But "Else was very silly, said granny. Why did she go around telling everyone. and saying she was Jewish."

And it was a French man or woman at that guesthouse where she was staying that betrayed Else and it was the French Police who then took Else away to be handed over to the Gestapo. In my family we have always cursed that anonymous French person, that "unknown soldier" of fascism. And we hope they feel our curse wherever they lie.

And so Else was taken to Drancy and then soon to Auschwitz in wagon number 27 where she was gassed on arrival for being Jewish. And mom lost an aunt and being intelligent she understood why, though she was very young.

But then Granny had to find work and she found work in Suresnes because she went to the Mayor of Suresnes who she had met at a social occasion before and, forthrightly, asked him to help her find work. Granny was very pretty and strong willed and she had a small child and the mayor found her irresistible and agreed to help her and found her a place at the Hospital Foch where she worked until 1944.

Dad, discussing it with me, doubted that they had had a physical relationship, but certainly the mayor was taken with Lisa, as most men were, and there was a strong friendship between them. Perhaps it was this friendship that protected Lisa and Eve from further betrayal, because the mayor was an influential man and it was rumoured that he even had connections with the Resistance.

Hospital Fochs was a place where wounded German soldiers went to recover and granny was a friendly and effective hospital administrator and the irony is that this was the one time in her life she could flourish in a work environment. For the rest of her life, this straight talking, both practical and romantic and charismatic woman was "sans profesion".

Once Rommel came to see his soldiers in the hospital and granny was proud to say she met him.

But then after the US soldiers came into Paris, black soldiers following the white soldiers by orders of De Gaulle, who shared the sensitivities of other French racists, and Lisa and Eve had no source of income for over a year and a half from the middle of 1944 to December 1945. In December they took the boat from Lisbon to South Africa and travelled on Checkoslovakian passports which Heini, as soon as he got out of the United States prisoner of war camps, typically generous and loving to his niece and twin sister, arranged.

Many of the French were clearly enemies twice over. They had attacked Lisa for being German, though she was married to a Jew and innocent and they had betrayed Else to the Nazis and actively rounded her up and handed her over to be killed because she was a Jew.

This odiousness must have mainly taken the form of 12 year old school girls mouthing off vileness in the proximity of a gifted nine year old aware of both her German and Jewish background. That is what I surmise, only people close and "cotidian" could affect Eve - so intimidated in fact, was Eve that she simply stopped eating and gave all her food away to her classmates - the single egg that granny had put in her satchel, the bread with a little butter. She was so intimidated and unhappy with her friendlessness that she was diagnosed with chronic malnutrition and had to be withdrawn from the school because otherwise she would not have lived - she would not have survived.

And then granny put her job on the line. Allow me to bring my daughter to work. She is ill. Do so or I will have to resign and though it was completely against hospital rules the hospital director relented and Eve was saved.

But in a most surreal fashion I search for Hospital Fochs, Suresnes and find the street view and some of it is about to be demolished and it has become famous for being a pioneer in the transplant of animal organs into humans.

Great granny Regine, Eve (Mom) and Granny Lisa: Paris 1936


Tony Hall, Dad and me (1959)


8.9.09

Chris and Andy Hall 1968


Have they changed? Not really!

Else and Richard Steinhardt























Inscription on the back in English:

To the dearest and prettiest girl

Fondly

Richard

Namaqualand flowers


Picture taken by Mary Turok.

Else Steinhardt, opera singer: born on 7th February 1908, died 3rd September 1942, gassed in Aushwitz


Grandpa Steinhardt climbing mountains with freinds

















Grandpa is the swarthy young man in the foreground on the left.

When Granny Lisa was particularly annoyed by the memory of Richard's old fashioned domineering behaviour towards her she would say, rather spitefully:

"Richard's family were only peasants really." And then later on, once she was more secure in that particular fiction, she would say:

"They were really only Gypsies. Of course they were they must have been. They came from a little village in Slovakia called Zemoun."







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Richard Steinhardt is centre front

Eve Hall (Mom) at the Holy Communion of a Friend in Paris in 1941


When Mom went to school she saw her friends take Holy Communion and she longed to do so herself. But Granny was Lutheran and Grandpa was Jewish and so she couldn't. But, at six, she learned about Joan of Arc and hated the English for killing her and dreamed of becoming a nun; or so she told me.

Isidore Steinhardt in Archduke Ferdinand's reception committee in Sarajevo














Isidore Steinhardt, the foreign editor of the Neue Freie Presse, is the man in the picture with his head circled in black.


Grandpa Richard Steinhardt is on the right and great-grandpa Isidore Steinhardt is third from the right. I don't know who the other walkers are, but would like to.

The pathologisation of terrorism

You can argue - correctly I think - that the threat of terrorism is real and that the actions taken to forestall terrorist attacks should be applauded and that the security services should be applauded.

But there is something in this that reminds me of Jane's Defence Weekly. These are superficial points to make, almost nerdy. They remind me of Robert Fox's approach to the Somali pirates.
Buy a bunch of fast speed boats to patrol the waters - call them "fast reaction force intrusion flash raider pirate stoppers" and then ... Bob's your uncle.

Except Bob isn't your uncle, I am Bobby's uncle.

They speak of the medicalisation of every ordinary complaint.

"I can't focus." "You have ADHD.". "I obsess a lot." "You have mild OCD," "I get anxious." "You have Acute Anxiety Disorder" and so on and so on and so on.

Well there is a whole industry out there, a counter terrorism industry, that operates on this basis. It does the equivalent of medicalising political complaints.

It turns a political problem into a "syndrome." It offers technical fixes for almost intractable systemic problems. The think tanks purvey their false pathologies of terrorism.

It's as if religion and injustice and imperialism and extremism and history and all those messy things were all just too complicated to think about and therefore we stuff them all into a big black box and limit ourselves to examining what drops out and we deal with that and draw conclusions from that.

Now, if you go to Northern Ireland in 2009 it is, honestly, such a backwater. Who could believe that such a backwater, such an underdeveloped little place, so parochial, and limited on all sides by the green countryside and the smell of the sea and manure, could be such a political conundrum?

And yet, in Northern Ireland and in Ireland there was a tradition of taking militant action to redress wrongs. That militancy sparkled with promise in so many ways. Fenian promise and hope for justice and redress and Ireland. They sparkled.

While that energy was there there was hope for a change in society. I wonder. I see a militant energy in the discontent of youth alienated by the fact that their parents experienced Paki - bashing and discrimination and that they are pissed off at the vast unrecognised undertow of racism that is there moving among the 80% native British.

There is something admirable in people that militate against injustice - even though it be through religion, but to actually be so downright stupid and bad as to go out and kill pointlessly in the hope that you will make a point is a contradiction.

The problem we have in our society is that we do not militate against people who would strip us of the gains of 1945. We do not militate against enough against the injustices of wars: The war in Iraq for example.

In another country, perhaps a government that engaged in an Illegal war and a government that was responsible for the deaths of hundreds of thousands and a country that sent it's soldiers to die for oil would be overthrown by its population. Perhaps its leaders would be incarcerated or executed. But not in Britain. We let it happen.

It is an almighty shame that such militancy against injustice is channelled into baseless dogmas disguised as religion and though terror when it should be channelled into forming a broad front in legitimate ways - not excluding demonstrations and strikes and pickets - against a murderous and unrepresentative government governing for and behalf of an elite.

It's an almighty shame that these people who committed these atrocities were such half wits, such tossers that they couldn't see the wood for the trees and join the dots and make all those other metaphorical links.

The truth is, to make a deeper analysis of terrorism is threatening to those in power, and those in power in the 5th estate. Take for example Cherie Blaire who said she could understand why someone in Palestine would become a suicide bomber. Well that was universally censored. No one discussed that point. She was said to be supporting terrorism and yet that is the real debate. What should the powerless do to empower themselves?

Pathologise that!

Spare a thought for Heini Göbel, 99 and on his death bed























Heini on stage in Hamburg

Spare a thought for Heini. He was hoping to reach 100, but it looks very unlikely. He is in bed at the moment calling for his twin sister, my grandmother:

"Lisa, Lisa, Lisa." They were inseperable. And he is also calling for his wife Rose and for his mother and he is not allowed to get out of bed and he is going mad. He's taking off his clothes. Rose asks him,

"But why are you doing this Henry?" and he replies:

"Because I am crazy!" Heini never learned to speak English well but now he speaks in English, not German.

When Heini was only 12 and it was during the time of the war and his father had died and his mother and little brothers and sisters were alone there was no food in the house - The younger children were crying and his mother was at her wits end - Heini decided to do something about it.

"Don't worry mother I will bring some food for us."

And he got on his pushbike and rode 20 miles on his bike to his grandmother's house. When he got there he told his grandmother that they had no food and that they were suffering and then she lead him out into the garden and said:

"All I can offer you are the vegetables growing here."

So he picked a cabbage and a few carrots and potoatoes and loaded with the vegetables rode 20 miles back to Shlitz, where they lived, to give them to his mother to cook for the family and his young siblings.

That's the kind of person Heini is.

He became a famous actor in the Munich theatre and made 22 films, but what Heini was most famous for was for being a great, dear clown.

Eve Steinhardt (19) at home in Bramley, Jo'burg


Picture by Tony Hall

Richard Steinhardt / Grandpa and friends in Vienna in the 1920s


Grandpa is second from the right. He is standing.

Granny and Grandpa and "Babylein" (Mom) with friends in Paris


Grandpa second from the left at the top and Granny second from the left at the bottom.

Granny Lisa Göbel's school in Frankfurt, 1925


Granny Lisa is seated on a chair, she's the first on the right

Grandpa Richard in South Africa during the war


Eve and Lisa in Austria after the war


Lisa and Eve (Granny and Mom) before the war


Lisa and Eve (Granny and Mom) during the war


7.9.09

Heini and Lisa dressed up as old people on their 97th birthday in 2006


Heini and Lisa Göbel, the inseperable twins (1931 and earlier)



Eve Hall (Mom) aged 9 in 1945


Grandpa Richard Steinhardt at the beach with friends (second from the right)


Richard, Paula, Else and Regine (left to right)


Else Steinhardt


Granny Lisa Göbel, (top row on the left)


Regine Steinhardt (Neumann) in Vienna


Great aunt Else Steinhardt as a child


























Richard, Else and Arthur in Sarajevo (10/1909 - 11/1918)


Grandpa Richard and Uncle Arthur Steinhardt


Grandpa Richard, great granny Regine and great aunt Else


3.9.09

Pam and Eve at the Marriot in Cairo: August 1991



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hi phil,

did i ever send you this, i am not sure. came across it recently and if i have, it doesn't hurt to send it gain.

it was taken at the marriot hotel in cairo, august 1991. we had a great meal and then went market shopping.

Love to you all,

Pam

2.9.09

The painful prose of Rostopchine







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You used to read Mme la Comtesse de Segur...
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...when you were 5 years old and in Paris alone with your mother.

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I saw a book in a shop in Golfe Juan by the Comtesse the last time I was there with granny, and thought of buying it for you. Granny and I had a lovely time sipping Pastis and chatting together that holiday - she was only 97, independent, enjoying Pastis with me and laughing.

When I told you about the book, you looked at me sharply and said:

- "That would have been very painful."

And I knew you would say that. I was provoking you. I thought:

- "Now you really do need to talk to me about Paris during the war, because time is running out." At least that's what I thought then.

And so I phoned Linda Grant as you got worse to ask her if she would help you get your memoirs published and Linda immediately phoned Gillian Slovo, (daughter of your old heroic friends, Ruth and Joe Slovo) and Linda phoned me back immediately and said:

- "Yes, of course, as much as we can." and so I phoned you to tell you and you listened and all you said was

- "I love you darling." With such an emphasis so strong that the sound still carries.

And for that, Linda may ask me any favour of any sort she likes and at any time. Go ahead.
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But then your health started to slide. And of course I asked you to please write something, and you did write one little piece called "La Petite Madeleine" which is on a computer that uncle Mike has and also on the old computer at Matumi - and I can't get down there because I have to teach here in the British boondocks for a while, in Kent, and it's driving me nuts.

The last time I went down to be with you both the house was full of tension. We were very happy to be together but you were preoccupied with getting your affairs in order and dad was frazzled by your repetitive questions seeking constant reassurance that this or that had been done. Of course not your fault at all and very prescient. But dad did have everything in order - absolute order.
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You were on strong doses of morphine but it didn't seem to effect your functioning all that much. I tell a lie. When you emerged from your room, on the occasions when we visited, you were fully present. You took one dose for the pain every 3 hours or so. I saw your dosages dad had carefully poured out and put into bottles in the fridge and accidentally drank the contents of one bottle of morphine down with a coke.

Dad was going too, and he was aware of it. You too. You were frightned he might go first. I found his notes. He had a heart murmer and he was pre-diabetic and had prostate cancer. The human condition. But we didn't know that dad was that ill. In retrospect, dad alluded to it, but we chose to deny, disavow and intellectualise.

We saw how you and dad helped each other to bear up and face each day quite joyfully. How felicitous that you decided to go a place near Cape Town and see the daisies month or so before with Ben and Mary.

You helped bear each other up in ways that we will never know, but sometimes there were storms of fear and sadness and anger that blew. Dad would just bellow with despair and rage and you would get extraordinarily tense and weep because perhaps you had too little energy to really get angry - which normally you would have been perfectly capable of. Your arguments must have carried across the valley to the Voights, perhaps even to the battery chicken farm in the distance.

And yet we didn't share that immediate pain and suffering for much of the time; living far away from you in London. It was dad alone who was your support. And Nomsa and Gazani and your marvellous friends from the struggle and all from your travels and work and the South African family and your kind friends in the valley.

So when you gave me that book. "A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius" and asked me to read it I didn't. It was about a son who helped his mother through her cancer but I couldn't help, because we lived so far away. I shall remember that need to be close when Tere suggests going back to Mexico to be with her mom and sisters.

Your stomach was ballooning up with water and needed to be drained. It was "extremely uncomfortable" as you put it. Your stomach went down, but then it quickly came back up again. You hated that. It must have been truly vile.
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When you were in quite a serious condition - but putting far too brave a face on it as usual, you decided to come to the UK and see us and so you did. Wow! And you didn't come first class using Chris's flight concessions, but travelled economy and it was painful, but you bore it and you were with us for the precious goodbye visit.

And when we said goodbye that time it was the last time I ever saw you except for those moments on your king sized death bed, with Chris and Andy and Dad. But nobody thought that dad would go so soon after you, though I suspected it. That's why I gave you both that picture by Chagal where the couple is in the flat in Paris and it is the man who flies off and not the woman. You understood.

You read my blog where I wrote about you and dad and remarked:

- "You were a little rough on my father, but, well, yes that is what it was like."

You were about to sell Granny's flat in Golfe Juan and while while I was there, writing something in the study, I stepped into the lounge and heard a scuffle. So I woke you both up and we alerted the security guards and along came a large Afrikaaner and two assistants. We saw that whoever it had been had got through a kitchen window.

- "It was an inside job," the guard said stowing away his stubby little pistol, "They stole nothing they caused no damage and they knew the way in."

You and I seemed to think this made sense and told dad and dad exploded.

- "How can you think so badly of the people who work for us. "Why do you always see the worst in people. Always a sting in the tail, Phil." and he went of like a bomb. But some of his anger was directed at you.

Later you started crying, though I am sure you wouldn't want to be reminded of it, and said desperately:

- "I can't sell the house in France I would feel lost, I would feel lost and you said, I don't want to stay here anymore - in Matumi."


So in the end you both decided that you would divide up your time between Matumi and France for as long as the situation lasted and that was your plan, but I thought to myself.

"Mom, why would you feel lost without the flat in France. Why?

Why, when you were little at the age of 8, when you wrote such beautiful French poetry that the school promoted you into classes of 12 year olds, did you choose to forget your French? You only spoke it passably and used it in Geneva and the Francophonie.

What was your experience and understanding of what was happening in Paris? You were a precocious child who at age 4 told her German mother to stay quiet while you asked for things in the shops. You understood. Your aunt disappeared. Did you understand why? Your father left. Did you understand why? Your grandmother stopped writing letters and postcards. Did you understand why she stopped?

You sent me a text which the mobile phone comany deleted after a few months, saying that you was going into hospital, but that there was no need to worry. But there was a need to worry. I phoned you in hospital and you answered groggily, because of the morphine.

- "I feel so awful. Really, it's awful." Your incredulity at the pain and discomfort you were feeling and then, preoccupied by the pain you ended our conversation and your last words to me were: "Be kind to my father." which without context don't make sense, but in the context of Linda's response to my proposal, made perfect sense. Those were you last words to me: "Be kind to my father."

And before you returned to France to live you died. Not long before you died you repeated the old chestnut with a laugh:

- "I love everthing about France except the French."

My beautiful, intelligent, loving, big hearted, intelligent, erudite, high achieving, intense mother, I think you did understood. I think you did know. I think you meant what you said. But I don't think you wanted to return to France to actually live there.
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The truth is you didn't want to face up to that early childhood, where, as precocious and sensitive as you were, you understood what was happening at the most important level. 12 -13 year old school girls can be hateful creatures, especially when they are constricted and oppressed.
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Your actions spoke louder than a million words. They certainly speak louder than my words about you. A brave fight against racism and injustice and poverty was the perfect riposte to the racism injustice and poverty of a war time childhood in Paris. Your sense of humour, joy of life and good manners were a perfect answer to the brutal stupidity and banality of low brow Apartheid and fascism.
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As Marcelino said at your funeral - such well chosen words. Where are you know Eve. We don't know. But wherever you are one thing we do know, the struggle for justice and equality has not ended, we must continue to fight for what Eve fought for and for what we value and what must be done.
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In this sense of course there was no need for you to "face up" to an early childhood full of all that stuff: love achievement, war and trauma, anti-semitism and sadness, friendships and books. Where was the need? I agree. Your life was the fullest response imagineable to the crap you faced - your sun shone bright at midday, and for quite a while.
.
So France is symbol - a burdensome one. It contains a load emptied of meaning by focused practical action. Paris and France hold a phantasmogorical and emotional charge, difficult to exorcise, and really not worth the effort of an exorcism. France, like the symbol of the moon in the Tarot pack. Perhaps directly recalling your experiences in Paris are merely an unproductive exercise in skating on the dark side. Perhaps they are something that can only be approached indirectly, glancing from side to side into windows, sidestreets, parks.


* ..........* .........*


I. Camille et Madeleine.

Mme de Fleurville était la mère de deux petites filles, bonnes, gentilles, aimables, et qui avaient l'une pour l'autre le plustendre attachement. On voit souvent des frères et des soeurs sequereller, se contredire et venir se plaindre à leurs parents après s'être disputés de manière qu'il soit impossible de dé mêlerde quel côté vient le premier tort.
Jamais on n'entendait une discussion entre Camille et Madeleine. Tantôt l'une, tantôt l'autre cédait au désir exprimé par sa soeur.Pourtant leurs goûts n'étaient pas exactement les mêmes. Camille, plus âgée d'un an que Madeleine, avait huit ans. Plus vive, plusé tourdie, préférant les jeux bruyants aux jeux tranquilles, elle aimait à courir, à faire et à entendre du tapage.
Jamais elle nes'amusait autant que lorsqu'il y avait une grande réunion d'enfants, qui lui permettait de se livrer sans réserve à ses jeux favoris. Madeleine préférait au contraire à tout ce joyeux tapage les soinsqu'elle donnait à sa poupée et à celle de Camille, qui, sans Madeleine, eût risqué souvent de passer la nuit sur une chaise et de ne changer de linge et de robe que tous les trois ou quatre jours.
Mais la différence de leurs goûts n'empêchait pas leur parfaite union. Madeleine abandonnait avec plaisir son livre ou sa poupéed ès que sa soeur exprimait le désir de se promener ou de courir; Camille, de son côté, sacrifiait son amour pour la promenade et pour la chasse aux papillons dès que Madeleine témoignait l'enviede se livrer à des amusements plus calmes.
Elles étaient parfaitement heureuses, ces bonnes petites soeurs, et leur maman les aimait tendrement; toutes les personnes qui les connaissaient les aimaient aussi et cherchaient à leur faire plaisir.

II. La promenade, l'accident.Un jour, Madeleine peignait sa poupée; Camille lui présentait lespeignes, rangeait les robes, les souliers, changeait de place leslits de poupée, transportait les armoires, les commodes, leschaises, les tables. Elle voulait, disait-elle, faire leurdéménagement: car ces dames (les poupées) avaient changé demaison.

MADELEINE.--Je t'assure, Camille, que les poupées étaient mieuxlogées dans leur ancienne maison; il y avait bien plus de placepour leurs meubles.

CAMILLE.--Oui, c'est vrai, Madeleine; mais elles étaientennuyées de leur vieille maison. Elles trouvent d'ailleursqu'ayant une plus petite chambre elles y auront plus chaud.

MADELEINE.--Oh! quant à cela, elles se trompent bien, car ellessont près de la porte, qui leur donnera du vent, et leurs litssont tout contre la fenêtre, qui ne leur donnera pas de chaleurnon plus.

CAMILLE.--Eh bien! quand elles auront demeuré quelque temps danscette nouvelle maison, nous tâcherons de leur en trouver une pluscommode. Du reste, cela ne te contrarie pas, Madeleine?

MADELEINE.--Oh! pas du tout, Camille, surtout si cela te faitplaisir.»Camille, ayant achevé le déménagement des poupées, proposa àMadeleine, qui avait fini de son côté de les coiffer et de leshabiller, d'aller chercher leur bonne pour faire une longuepromenade. Madeleine y consentit avec plaisir; elles appelèrentdonc Élisa.«Ma bonne, lui dit Camille, voulez-vous venir promener avec nous?

ÉLISA.--Je ne demande pas mieux, mes petites; de quel côtéirons-nous?

CAMILLE.--Du côté de la grande route, pour voir passer lesvoitures; veux-tu, Madeleine?

MADELEINE.--Certainement; et si nous voyons de pauvres femmes etde pauvres enfants, nous leur donnerons de l'argent. Je vaisemporter cinq sous.

CAMILLE.--Oh! oui, tu as raison, Madeleine; moi, j'emporteraidix sous.»Voilà les petites filles bien contentes; elles courent devant leurbonne, et arrivent à la barrière qui les séparait de la route; enattendant le passage des voitures, elles s'amusent à cueillir desfleurs pour en faire des couronnes à leurs poupées.

«Ah! j'entends une voiture, s'écrie Madeleine.

--Oui. Comme elle va vite! nous allons bientôt la voir

.--Écoute donc, Camille; n'entends-tu pas crier?

--Non, je n'entends que la voiture qui roule.»

Madeleine ne s'était pas trompée: car, au moment où Camille achevait de parler, on entendit bien distinctement des crisperçants, et, l'instant d'après, les petites filles et la bonne, qui étaient restées immobiles de frayeur, virent arriver une voiture attelée de trois chevaux de poste lancés ventre à terre,et que le postillon cherchait vainement à retenir.Une dame et une petite fille de quatre ans, qui étaient dans lavoiture, poussaient les cris qui avaient alarmé Camille et Madeleine.
Continues....

From LES PETITES FILLES MODÈLES (1857) by Mme la Comtesse de Ségur (née Rostopchine)

31.8.09

The gay map of the world



I had a friend called Gary. I met him in Madrid. It was the late eighties.

He was charming and very fit, but believed in macrobiotics. Macrobiotics to me is a form of twisted xenophobia against tomatoes.

Long live the tomato! I say.

Gary hung out with an unimpressive expatriot in-crowd. It was the time of "La Marcha" in Madrid, and Madrid was a very good place to be in 1987. Sade lived in Madrid and was saying very odd things about her "masterful lover", that pointed towards the logic behind her choice of stage name.

But Sade's expostulating was the antithesis of the approach of one formidable young woman I met. This fashionable, earinged, short-haired soul was so obnoxious that the macho barber who cut her hair had decided to clip her earlobe with a pair of scissors. She couldn't understand why, but I could.

On the other hand, despite the swinging feel of the town, (not quite Paris in the twenties) the Spanish were awfully parochial. One solitary black man walked down the road late at night and a Taxi (white with a red diagonal stripe - beloved of Almodavar) slows down:

"Negro desgraciado, bastardo, regresate a tu pais."

He shouts, and he probably became the next coach of the Spanish national team: Aragon, the racist taxi driver.

But in any event, Gary was gay and in those days we were all part gay, weren't we? According to Gary one-in-four men were gay, and so I thought well, be friends, don't be prejudiced.

He took me round Madrid. "Cibeles", he said, is a gay pick up point." "The Retiro," he said: "is a gay pick up point." "Plaza Espanya," he said is a gay pick up point (in fact it is the symbolic centre of fascism in Spain) ....until my whole map of Madrid became Gary's gay map.

"How would you describe your sexuality", he asked me:

"Well, to some extent, I suppose I am polymorphously perverse." - I was taking the Mickey.

"Aha!" He said. "That means you are gay. The only place they mention that word is in the gay literature."

"Well actually", I said, (my pretentiousness still gongs back to me over the years) "I read it in a book by Freud and not the gay literature."

But what shocked me was this overlaying of maps: "Gay Brighton," "Gay Lebanon," "Gay Manchester," "Gay Cibeles." The all encompassing gay map of the world was surprising to those of us who were new to it.

Gary's flatmate was called Susan. She was a deeply pretentious Australian film director who wore black ski pants. I wish her well now. I hope she has produced many deeply pretentious and successful art films in her life.

She came home one day and Gary carefully closed the door.

Then he said to me: "I'll show you some yoga."

"Alright, let's see." I come from a family of illumined Yoga teachers and experts - Uncle Mike, Dad, David, Felicity.

And he got into a variety of Yoga positions, groaning very loudly as he did so, so that Susan would overhear.

Despite this feint on his part, Susan was not put off. I started going out with her and dropped Gary as a friend. He deserved it. But she was too freckly and Anglo-Saxon. I couldn't take it. Too close to home. When I got back to London I got rid of her. I palmed her off onto my brother's cool London crowd - the ones that can lead deeply uncool Guardian plonks by the nose.

An so Des picked up with her. The great, beautiful Des. Once Des was the King of London. And I ask myself why he took her on. Was it brotherly curiosity? In any event he quickly dumped Susan and said to me in a companionable piss in The Spice of Life Pub:

"Phil, you were well shot of her, mate."

Turned out she hated me because she adored abstract art and was incredibly irritated by the fact that I had said abstract art was funded by the CIA and that I insisted all art should be political. Well, it should, shouldn't it? In any event, it was rather an abstract reason to actively hate someone.

She came all the way back to Madrid to hate me, appearing one morning like a ghost.

"Yes" .... and I took her to the Retiro for a coffee - Hot, black and half torrecfacto, with lots of sugar.

"You are trying to put me in a good mood," she said, suspiciously. "I know you are. Is it the heat the sweetness or the caffeine?"

"Guilty as charged, Susan. Now fuck off back to Australia, please."

But Gary. Well I went to Mexico, met a Mexican, married a Mexican and then on a trip to Madrid with her met the short haired girl (the one sans earlobe) at the grotty baggage collection point in Heathrow Terminal 2.

"My wife, I said". By way of introduction.

"Really!," she said?

And heard her think: "But aren't you gay?"

Obviously Gary had made up a moving story about our "sweet parting" when I our friendship died its natural death.

"Yes, really," I said, looking longingly at her other untouched earlobe.

So I have thought of Gary and sometimes wonder what he is up to. I invited him to a meal with my parents in the Plaza Mayor before I left Spain. They were very accepting. The Ribeiro was excellent and went very well with the fish. Gary was my friend and he did open my eyes to many things and to an unfamiliar gay topography I was unaware of, and I thank him for that.

So I am not surprised Lebanon is "gay" and Shakespeare is "gay." There is the layering effect of reality that puts maps upon maps upon maps, and that ....well that's alright.

29.8.09

The great Peugeot 504 rally car




We went to lake Naivasha occasionally,

The Elzaki's had a Peugeot 404 and we had white Volkswagen Beetle (number plates: KGB 778). There are smooth straight stretches of road on the way to Naivasha and the Elzakis were in front.

Dad decided we would race them: As he accelerated the VW engine clatter got louder and we went past blowing raspberries at the Elzaki children, who looked shocked and piqued. We shouted in triumph. But then the Elzakis entered the game and after a few minutes a dangerously rocking Peugeot 404 overtook us in turn, with the Elzaki children staring back at us in our upstart Beetle.

In those days Peugeots were wonderful cars. The toughest rally in the world was the East African Safari rally. It was an important occasion for Kenyans. We used to drive out into the countryside and choose a promising corner with a hump and a high bank and sit and watch the rally cars as they approached.

The cars geared down, flew up, spun round and accelerated away in one single movement, spraying stones and kicking up red earth as they did so. Sometimes we would catch a view of the drivers behind the dirty windscreens. Either they were in furious conversation or they were twinned in their intensity - already anticipating the next corner.

We would know who the drivers were because the names were on the front of the roof. There were Kenyan, English and and Finnish drivers. We always supported the Kenyan drivers. But Hannu Mikola and Gunner Palme were the best in the end.

The most exciting experience I have ever had of speed was vicarious.

There was something miraculous about those rally cars. They contrasted so strongly with ordinary cars. At dusk you would see the white lights of commuter traffic in the distance, travelling at about 60 to 70 miles per hour. But then the yellow halogen lights of a rally car would appear stage right and quickly overtake the rest; within a few minutes the rally car had disappeared stage left.

When my father bought an old 504 it was because we all remembered its glories. The 504 is a litmus test. I haven't heard anyone on Top Gear ever mention what a wonderful and tried and tested champion the 504 is. Neither have I heard any mention of the East African Safari Rally, then the best in the world. Just goes to show they don't know all that much about great cars on Top Gear.

26.8.09

The great cheek of Mr Balls.

The Dangers of Remote Controlled Education

Essentially, Labour's education policies amounted to a de-skilling of teachers by forcing every school to follow a National Curriculum in the questionable pursuit of standardisation.

This National Curriculum was supposed to be an example of "best practice". This was a term borrowed from quality management. The National Curriculum reads as if it was thought up by one particularly conformist pedagogue in the bath. Why should every teacher follow the lead of a "paragon' s" ? It doesn't work in theory or practice. Some of the best teachers are incredibly eccentric.

The vital thing you have to understand about teaching, and I speak as a teacher trainer who started training in 1988, is that every teacher needs to be aware of their own teaching style when they teach. Different teaching styles derive from different personalities and outlooks on teaching. Where does conforming to the ideas and thoughts of one personality match this eclecticism? It doesn't. The New Labour educational programme demonstrates basic ignorance of the real nature of the teaching and learning process.

_____________________________________________


The New Labour programme demonstrates basic ignorance of the real nature of the teaching and learning process.

_____________________________________________

Teachers live by their creative professional judgement. Teaching is an art and not a science. Teachers are dealing with the whole human; with human minds and emotions and motivations. Once teachers are trained and educated; once they have reflected for a few years on their practice, only then are they are in a position to make the best judgements possible about what to teach and how to teach it and about the order in which to teach it - to decide how to adapt the methodology and materials to individual students needs and to the demands of the course and the institution and to meet stakeholder expectations.

Teachers, like lawyers and doctors have to rely on their professional judgement. The National Curriculum dumbs everyone down. Perhaps it does provide a template for more inexperienced teachers for a time, however, once they get their bearings they don't need the curriculum for much longer and it becomes a hinerance.

Think of all the energy, resources and time the New Labour Government has wasted on this vanity project - on making the hundreds and thousands of young people conform to their idea of what young people should be. Think of the awful instrumentalism of the process, of its crudity and terrifying mundanity. Think of the waste: miles of glossy paper, millions of plastic CDs full of gobble-gobble-gobble, websites full of guidelines, useless training courses aimed at making sure everyone knows the bleedin' obvious.

The quality control Parasite

And then came the SATs and the other national examinations - They all made sure that what was taught was tested, in an awful self perpetuating cycle of stupidity. Those of us who have actually studied management at postgraduate level know that quality control systems are dangerous because they have an enormous cost and that they can quickly turn parasitical. New Labour public administrators, though they were enamoured with managerial speak, didn't understand this basic fact about quality control systems.

Think of the inspectorates, the self perpetuating educational equivalent of the Spanish Inquisition, there to make sure that the whole palaver operated according to the government's top down impositions.

What conclusions can we draw about the reasons why New Labour perpetrated this remote controlled educational system from a sofa in Downing Street?

Strategic planning is not curriculum planning

Strategic planning is not curriculum planning. Mission statements and overarching objectives from government should never convert directly into educational plans. All the education departments wrote their strategic plans based on these handed down, top heavy objectives and these objectives were broken down in turn into SMART actions. Everyone had to fall into line willy nilly with the puerile and vapid "visions" that Tony Blair and his associates thought up on the couch.

New Labour perverted the British educational paradigm

The New Labour Blairite government sent too many fact finding missions to replicate the approach and methods of the US education system: Bloom and Gagne rule in the US. In other words learning produces measurable behavioural outcomes. That's why the fools have so many multiple choice tests and we don't.

But if you understand learning and the learning process then you know that the whole concept of descrete measurable learning outcomes is quite laughable - especially for subjects like English and history. New Labour perverted the whole humanist philosophy that underpinned the education system in the UK.

New Labour introduced the Academies as a first step to privatising education. The Tories are very happy with this model and want to expand it to every primary school; possibly to every secondary school. Mr Balls, your lot did that.

But there is one thing New Labour did not do that it should have done. New Labour did not bring the public schools into line. It left the independent schools to their own devices. This private school system is the elephant in the room. It is the core of the problem of inequality in Britain and you and your bunch, Mr Balls, did nothing to change that.

"If music be the food of love, play on."






http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/14/Rijeka-view-2.jpg

J'Attendrai 1, JAttendrai 2

Dover 1939, on the ferry to France

Mahler Symphony No 1

Hove, the smell of night flowers

Natty Dread

Rijeka crossing into Trieste 1976

Every grain of sand

Play that at my funeral, Chicks

Blue

Brighton 1977

Sisters of Mercy

Nairobi 1974

Ring of Fire

Nice Mexican lilt to this

Hurt

2008 February, London

Where e're you walk

At mom's funeral in Nelspruit, the song sung by John

Moondance

I977

Boulevard of Broken Dreams

My children's music

Pissing in a River

Lowest Low No. 2 1978

Super Ape

Brighton 1979

The Wind

India and Tolworth

Fire

2009

Heartbeats

Tolworth 2007

Don't tell me

Uruapan with Tere and family Christmas 2000

La Negra Tomasa

with Teserita in 1989

Wish you were here

India 1975

Buckets of Rain

New Delhi 1975 If you want me, honey baby I'll be there.

Willie the Pimp

In India, preparing for O'Level examinations, 1976

Song for Sharon, Black Crow

Brighton 1978

Playa Hater

My lowest low No. 3 in 1997

Marieta, Corazon Espinado,

These songs saved me in 1998.

Hasta siempre commandante Che Gueverra

In Cuba with Teresa, Mom and Dad 1998

Tomorrow is a long time

Dad wrote this song on an ostrich shell for mom in 1974

Solid Air, May you Never

Yugoslavia 1977

Not at Home

Carmen and her guitar

Acis and Galetea

Peter Pears, what a voice

Mad Man Dubwise

Brighton

Flor di Nha Esperanza

Zimbabwe 1992

25.8.09

Play list 4: Classical banquet

These composers blow me away.

Olivier Messiaen

Juan Gutierrez de Padilla - a 16th century Mexican composer

Morton Feldman

Alfred Schnittke

Fazil Say

Gyorgy Ligeti

Zoltan Kodaly

Lou Harrison

Iannis Xenakis

Pierre Boulez

Giacinto Scelsi

Johannes Brahms

John Cage

János Bartók

Edgard Varèse

Mauricio Kagel

John Adams

Terry Riley

Steve Reich

Alvin Lucier

Morton Subotnik

Luciano Berio




Thanks to Alpay and Last.fm

20.8.09

Guardian: Kate Harding's reactionary censorious blog on CiF

It should go without saying...

....that we condemn the scummy prat who called Liskula Cohen: "a psychotic, lying, whoring ... skank"

But I disagree with Kate Harding, (in my view a pseudo blogger), posting her blog in the Guardian attacking bloggers. It's a case of set a thief to catch a thief. The mainstream media is irritated by bloggers because they steal its thunder and so they comission people like Kate Harding, people with nothing to say for themselves, apparently, other than that they are feminists, to attack bloggers.

I'm black. So I can legitimately attack "angry white old men". I'm a feminist, so I have carte blanche to call all anonymous bloggers "prats." Because yes, that is her erudite response to bloggers.

No I don't say that the blogging medium can't be used to attack progressives in whatever context. Of course it can. But to applaud the censorship of a blogger by a billion dollar corporate like Google, and moreover from the vantage point of a US legal system that allows aberrations like the death penalty and Guantanamo Bay is a bit rich, to say the least.

And yet the Guardian, schizophrenic as ever when it comes to the United States, posts Kate Harding up as if she were one of their own and one of our own probably because - get this - she is a "feminist". So that's alright then. Talk about a Newspaper in an identity crisis. The Guardian flails around lashing at the very medium that promises to be its salvation.

One word covers up a whole range of sins. Is Kate Harding also a believer in the freedom of people to express themselves as they see fit in a public space. I very much doubt it. Because she uses the hyperbole in her blog, layers it on thick, to extrapolate from the misogynistic outpourings of one single blogger to all bloggers in all cases.

She may not be an idiot, but she is, as the saying goes, possibly, a "useful idiot". In other words she is being used.

Of course politics in the US is infinitely dumbed down to the level of identity and it shows in Kate Harding's blog. Big daddy Google and the US legal system and the Guardian editors all come out to fight for the right to shut bloggers up on the basis that one blogger is acting like a twat.

In this dreamland Obama is wonderful primarily because he is black. And the people who oppose him according to a recent blog on Cif are awful because they are mainly "angry white men". The simplistic politics here are taken down here to the level of complete nausea.

But where do you get such a license to insult bloggers? Call yourself a feminist and a fighter for women's rights and you can get away with all sorts of reactionary shit. What is your response Kate? Anything? Feel free to answer in anyway you like here - I won't hold my breath.

My fellow blogger, Wordy, not gendered and an ardent supporter of Obama, has a lot of interesting things to say on this subject. A lot more interesting than the inflammatory tosh that passes for Kate Harding's blog, anyway.

http://acacciatura.wordpress.com/2009/08/18/bloggers-can-be-choosers-2/

19.8.09

I fell in love with a Purepecha in Tzintzuntzan





Picture by Aranxata


I fell in love with a Purepecha of Tzintzunzan. I have a picture of her clearly in my mind - sitting on top of the largest round Yacata, overlooking the lake; there is a hoop of silver in her ear; she is an expectant, confident young queen dressed in an embroidered white cotton shirt.

Across from us on our left we can see a weathered cathedral and monastry, it's sweet yellow stone is visible through the trees. The breeze blows off the lake, combs into the pines and then washes back - bringing the scent of winumo.

18.8.09

Great grandmother Carolin Göbel


Tony, Mike, Grandpa John, Little John and Nola 1955


Eve Hall, 1958, Bramley, Johannesburg


Meudon-la-Foret, winter 1970


Lido Hotel, Eikenhof, South Africa 1956


Eve and Tony's Wedding 9th June 1958


1989, Uruapan, morning of Phil and Tere's wedding


Emotional exhibitionism, intellectual masturbation and the vanity of grief

Slavoj Zizeck, in a rhetorical splurge in 2004 quotes: "Step on the throat of your muse." Because, as I understand him, the personal and the expressive is now the reactionary, it is what isolates us in consumerism. Get out there engage and if necessary use ethical violence to change an ethical stasis, an exploitable stagnation. So this blog is reactionary - according to Zizeck.

There was an article in a philosophy magazine about the vanity of grief. Apparently the reason why people get taken up in grief is because they are actually confused about their own identity when they lose someone. So this blog is a manifestation of vanity.

Blogging about things that you are not an expert in where you may not be read and may not get a response and blogging as if you had something of any significance to say has been called intellectual masterbation. So I suppose that this blog is an exercise, sometimes, in intellectual masturbation.


Well what should I respond to that?

17.8.09

Walk across Canterbury






































































































































































































Mom and Granny: Munich 1957


15.8.09

Paula Neumann





















Else Steinhardt (seated) and Paula Neumann (standing)

The first time we met Auntie Paula was at the Munich Olympics. Grandpa had decided to work for Bernard Moteur in Munich, where Heini lived, and so when we went to stay with them we could visit them all.
.
Granny and Grandpa's flat was decorated in exactly the same way as their Meudon flat - with the same clocks and paintings that are now spread over four houses.
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It was an overly ordered environment, and then Paula arrived and put it right. The oppression lifted and the fun started. Paula's hair was white and piled up high. Her feelings showed on her face. She was about 60 but in fact she was really the same age as us. Granny would get irritated by the noise and scold us, and her harsh words would include Paula - which made Paula laugh.
.
We played a memory game together cities of the world and as we played she would exclaim joyfully, every time she matched a pair of cards. But she was especially happy to see Montevideo because she said she would have loved to see it. So she would shout:"Montevideeeeooo!" every time the card turned up. If I ever go to Uruguay I will have to shout "Montevedeeooo!" as I get off the plane in her memory.
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Grandpa decided we should go down to see Salzburg and the Austrian lakes. He took us in his swish new blue Passat. We stopped at a little Bavarian restaurant on the way to Austria where they served wild boar in a wild mushroom sauce with potatoes and sauerkraut. It was delicious and fatty, and smelled musky.
.
Crossing into Austria we got out and went for a walk in the mountains up to a viewing point and grandpa told us about how picking wild strawberries and mushrooms were a national Austrian obsession. At certain times of the year, everyone would go into the mountains and hunt for either wild strawberries or mushrooms and it was a treacherous double dealing leisure activity with everyone trying to put each other off the scent. We found a few wild strawberries ourselves. They were really were really very sweet.
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Every year grandpa would get a letter of invitation to his school reunions from his former classmates, which he would refuse to read. The photos show that Grandpa might even have played hockey for Austria. Perhaps the letters were from his hockey friends. Grandpa had many friends. Eric, Paula's brother, said that he would always remember Richard as the active young man at the centre of a large group of friends. Grandpa didn't want to see them ever again because he suspected what they might all have been up to during the war.
.
We went down to Unterach and swam in the Attersee. The Atersee was formed from glacial meltwater and so it was freezing and it stayed that way despite the sun. But we were assured that it was fine to swim in and that we would get used to it. We splashed into the lake and the water was so cold it burned and the best feeling of all was coming out and feeling the blast of warm summer air.
.
Paula and mom and granny would shout in sympathy as we come out of the cold water and I think only mom got into that lake a couple of times and went: "Whoop! Whoop! Whoop!" as she swam in small circles dark blue grey water.
.
I left to go to boarding school with mom and the twins stayed on for a bit and went to the Beckenbauer football school for a while and grandpa to them took then to some of the Olympic events.
.
Mom took me to Peckham to stay at the Levy's house and I think we were very close at that time - just me and mom. Most of the time she was taking me shopping for school uniforms, but some of the time we watched the Olympics together and together we tidied up the Levy's very messy terraced house.


At school I couldn't fly home every holiday and so I either stayed with Paula or the Levy's. Paula lived in Dorset square and had the key to the private Garden in front and sometimes we sat in the private garden and she would ask me what I was reading, because I read a lot, and because I had not really spoken to anyone about books at school and because she seemed so familiar and because she was so loving, I poured out all my thoughts and fantasies on time travel and space travel and the like to Paula. No one else took the time to listen to me. She must have been very bored, but she seemed fascinated and so I responded.

Paula's companion was a little yellow and blue canary which she kept in the kitchen. Sometimes she would let it out and it would fly around as we drank tea. And we would talk about everything and she told me about how there were indeed men who loved her and she had loved men, but that as she had to look after her mother and her mother was very possessive she lost her opportunities to marry.

There were hats, exotic feathered hats, in various states of fabrication in the formal dark living room. We never sat in it. That must have been where her mother sat. In the living room there were big cases full of porcelain and silver objects and probably all the things you would have seen in an in-between the wars Viennese house.

"We weren't very well-off." she said, "Your grandfather's family was better off."

"My father was a socialist. He was on the left and I remember looking out of the window with him at the demonstrations in the streets below while he told me what was happening. I remember how we saw the fascists marching. My father told me about them. He was against them. We saw what they did. I was scared."

Paula made hats for elderly well-off rich women, that was the way she supplemented her income. Her rent was fixed because she had been in the flat since the early thirties and had the right to stay there. She also had a little pension and her brother Eric Neumann supported her. Later we went to see Eric once in the countryside in England somewhere.

I remember the route to Paula's house so well. It was the only time I travelled on the Bakerloo line to Bakerloo Street and then past Tussaud's and the Observatory to Dorset Square. She used to share wonderful cake with me every time I came and she was a wonderful auntie. I remember once she took me to a famous cafeteria in Regent's Street and bought me a lovely cake and tea and they seemed to know her quite well. She was enthusiastic about sweet things.
When I was difficult teenager I told her about the young women I loved and she listened to me. I told her about Nicky in particular - because I was still in love with Nicky - and it was than she confessed whe hadn't much experience in love and told me about how she had had to abandon love in order to look after her mom.

Paula was a fixture in our family life. And then we got a message from Eric that she had had a stroke and I went to see her while I was studying for my degree and she said. Phil, it's terrible.

"When I eat chocolate it tastes like I am eating wax. I have no taste at all. The doctors say I will get it back slowly, but really. It's terrible."

The way she said "terrible" sounded like a distorted echo of the way she shouted

"Montivideo!"

Then, the last time I visited her she said.

"Phil, I have something serious to tell you. I am a fraud. I am not your real auntie. I was Richard's cousin."

And I told her that it made absolutely no difference and that I loved her as my auntie Paula. She seemed upset. In the end I don't think she told me all that she would have liked to tell me at that point, because I was upset that she was upset.

But she did say: "I was very close to your auntie Else. We were very close and that's why Richard has always kept in touch with me and introduced me as your auntie. But I am not."

I think what she would have told me, (a conclusion I reach after doing a little research), was that Else had come to stay with her cousin and best friend in London to escape the Nazis in France, but that Else was so suffocated by Paula's domineering mother, that she decided to go back to Paris instead. Because, as my grandfather said in his letters, no-one expected the war situation to last more than a few months.

I neglected Paula in her last month. I didn't go to see her. I heard that she was getting better and I called her and heard that she had her taste back.

I said to myself: "Next week, next week, next week." and then I heard from my parents that she had died.

Going through granny's photos two years ago I found pictures of Else and Paula together. They look like a very happy-go-lucky brace of friends. Else is blond and Paula is dark and they are laughing in every photo. I can't help feeling that had I ever known auntie Else then she would have been a kind of twin to Paula and just as much fun. And Elsa was a reasonably well known opera singer too, so she would have added much to the fun.

* * *

[Just found a wierd connection with a Paula Neumann taken from Prague to Thereseinstadt, just as my Great Grandmother Regine Neumann was, but that the composer Richard Strauss tried to rescue this other Paula Neumann. ]




14.8.09

Why I hate Frank Bough.

A Bloody Curse fall on Nationwide and it's favourite son










From 9th September 1969 to 5th August 1983; that's 14 terrible years, the British population and British children were subjected to the accursed programme Nationwide. It was a blurry magazine format plastered into prime time. Nationwide marked the end of creative children's programming and the beginning of a Tsunami of slop. Nationwide, with Bough at its wheel for much of the time, was a machine for turning meaningful life and reality into mere sound and pictures. Nationwide was the televisual equivalent of the sound in the Malabar caves that drove Mrs Moore slightly mad - it was like a bulimic vampire worm moving through the ether sucking and chucking at the same time: boff ssss buff ssss boff ssss.

Nationwide rehashed the trite received wisdom of the day and spat it back at you lukewarm for 50 putrid minutes. It was the essence of alienation.

Skinhead culture had it's day and the skins revelled in "Paki bashing" unnoticed and ignored by the media. The best popular music on this side of the ocean had its glory day too - but you wouldn't have known it from watching Nationwide. Students were revolting as a prelude to selling out and becoming Jack Straw and Alasteir Darling, and while the foolish cool were experimenting with drugs, British manufacturing juddered to a halt and the spirit of the working class and its allies in the intelligentsia was shattered. But while all this went on we received our daily dose of 50 minutes of Nationwide. It was the the equivalent of drinking an ulcerating pint of Double Diamond in a plastic 70s pub mixed with Valium - and not minding at first.
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* * *
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Northern presenter: "Well it's all over, the second general election within a year and as the singing and the celebration parties dies away (?) we put the record right with a comprehensive review of all the main results East of the Pennines."
Frank Bough: "And at six thirty five in Network Nationwide we are keeping well away from those election results [smiles knowingly]. We have a new sport for you, a very unusual art display at Rochedale and a cheerful challenge from the Midlands. Jimmy Hill here looks at tomorrows sport..."
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Nationwide was a poisonously anodyne experience in sensory disassociation for the British "Volk". The programme made you ask yourself the question:

Is this really the country I am living in?

No!

Are these the issues we should be concerned with?

No!

But, some people actually thought they inhabited the world that Nationwide misrepresented. When Nationwide ended it was too late for them, they were already suffering from the effects of Nationwide's mental thalidomide.

Of course '90s and '00s popular television only looks good in comparison with programmes like Nationwide. Nationwide must be a modern TV production company spiv's touchstone. We are not like Nationwide.

- "Where's the jeopardy?" said an executive at Channel 4 when my brother and I presented a TV programme idea on Bullfighting to him.

Well there's the jeopardy and the justification for a lot of modern programming!

"Our stuff isn't like that Nationwide's stuff",

Now the spivs and the marketer's in television commission "edgy" (exploitative) programmes. But, the opposite of boring crap is exciting crap. That's what these TV homunculi forget.

Will she lose weight?
Will he get the job?
Will they get on?
Will he win?
Will they find a cure?

Games programmes only look good in comparison with "the Golden shot." Modern, bully-boy / bully-girl British comedy only looks good in comparison with Les Dawson and Mike Yarwood. Really, nearly all of modern British comedy is self deceiving over-marketed hyped up, shit purveyed by the most unfunny and money hungry TV executives you can imagine. Modern comedians are not the social conscience of our nation, they are merely the social climbers of our nation - Stephen Fry is not an aristocrat at all.

No, really he isn't.


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But back to Frank Bough. While he was administering us this Bromide this Seroquel, Abilify, Zyprexa, Risperdal, Geodon, Haldol, Thorazine, Clozaril, Trilafon and Stelazine of a programme, apparently he was involved in cross-dressing, cocaine and sado-masochism. Welcome to it, I say. Absolutely nothing wrong with that. He was living a heightened sense of reality - on the Isle of Wight -a difficult thing for anyone to do there, but he managed it - while our sense of reality was lowered. Election results just in, says the chap in the North, Frank chuckles in the Nationwide studios, well we'll have none of that here.

Why couldn't he have shared a little bit of his passion with us? Perhaps it would have been far more healthy and educational if Frank Bough, instead of fronting the most evil programme in the history of British television - in my immoderate opinion - had, instead, demonstrated to us how he got his jollies. Perhaps if British children had accidentally watched a bit of a drug fueled sado-masochistic cross dressing, instead of being tricked by inertia and hope into watching the first 10 minutes of Nationwide every night for 14 years, they might have learned more.

I hate Frank Bough just as much because he was not authentic in the Heideggerian sense. He wasn't true to himself. Frank, through Nationwide, skewed our own sensibilities, as he heightened his own. He seemed to me to be the inauthentic face of an inauthentic programme, so absolutely false that nowadays you can google Frank Bough, and puff ping boffffff shhssss and only one image of him emerges from the electronic cave (Actually, that's probably because I spelled his name incorrectly). But we do get this from TV.com :

"Nationwide ranks 10756 out of the 18279 shows on TV.com. Nationwide has 1 fan"

And the BBC is also - perhaps unconsciously - trying to erase Nationwide from living memory. Apparently, (Wikipedia tells me so), there is only one complete copy of all the Nationwide programmes and they are in a Sony video format that rapidly degrades. Soon the BBC will be able to deny the existence of Nationwide perhaps one of its greatest televisual crimes.

11.8.09

Would you like to go to India, boys?

We are living at Riverside Drive in Nairobi. I bicycle home from school on my olive green Raleigh bike, cooling in the wind, taking the curves, with a quick twist heading down the slope of the shared driveway. Turning left, I cross the gravel, brake, dismount and then lean the bike against the wall.

In the kitchen, Mom and Dad are waiting; Andy and Chris too. My parents are both excited.

"We've got something important to ask you.

Something knells inside. It is mom who asks.

Boys, would you like to go to India?"

This is the first time they have ever ask us for our permission to uproot. We are all content in Nairobi - happy, even.

India? I think of the pastel blue and pink exteriors of Gujarati-Kenyan houses. My Gujarati - Kenyan (1) friends are are all called Patel; they are neatly dressed and their heads smell of rosewater; Patel mothers make Patel boys soft. That's what I know. But then our Indian-Kenyan neighbours, are not soft at all and they have a gang and they challenge us to a stone fight.

Tom and Joe (originally from Uganda), Andy, Chris and I, line up in the trench. The neighbours' gang hide in theirs, across the drive and we throw stones at them, overarm, as hard as we can and the stones get bigger and bigger. As they fall they hurt, landing on our heads, shoulders and backs.

After a while, we've had enough. Shouting insults, we leave and walk back up the hill.

The next morning, at St Mary's school, the fifth formers block the entrance of th classroom. "We're gonna beat you up." they say." I recognise my neighbour at the back of the little pack, looking aggrieved. Perhaps we hurt them too. I think to myself. Good! Why else would he be annoyed? "It was your idea," I said.

I am seven and the smell is repulsively strong. An elderly grandmother, her purple sari spread out on either side of a stool, grates coconut with a sharp serrated blade jutting out from the wooden seat. Coming home from school I watch as she uses a pestle and mortar to mash up Serrano chili into a juicy green paste. The smell of fresh coconut and chili permeates the block.

Indian shops smell of Sandalwood, Patchouli and spices. They did then, too. There is rice, clothing, hardware or all of these things. Going into an Indian shop is like crossing the terminator. Your eyes must readjust before they can see shelves and baskets. Walking out, for a few seconds, my reality brightens and then dims again to normal.

In Mombasa there are strong, coastal curries to eat - birianis made from goat's meat and chicken, cumin and star anis flavoured rice. Mombasa has the best hot samosas - vegetable and meat. In the street people sell charcoal grilled shish kebabs where the beef has been marinated in lemon and Piri Piri. By the coast, Swahili African culture, with its Arab influences, and the culture of the subcontinent compliment each other.

I don't like the idea of India. I assume, that in India everyone will be willowy and smell of rosewater, that the houses will be painted in pastels colours and that the neighbours will throw stones.

"Why not. I say. Let's do it, mom and dad." The twins agree too, though it means leaving their host of local friends. We agree because we are gypsies and need to travel. My mother used to quote Don Marquis - Mehitabel, who always said:

"wot the hell, archy, toujours gai, toujours gai."

Perhaps I would learn to like the smell of rose water, after all.



We came straight to India from South Africa


It was a long flight and dad came to pick us up. He maneuvered towards us smiling and cool in sandals and a loose white Kurta. The twins - who were 13 at the time - had decided to be fashionable. and they had insisted on wearing the new black leather trousers they had bought in South Africa. But The Bombay heat combined with the Bombay humidity was astonishing. After half an hour my brothers were whimpering, after a couple of hours they were weeping, but there was nothing dad or I could do to help them. The leather trousers tormented them terribly and we had to wait and wait for that flight.

In New Delhi an old Ambassador taxi took us to the Lodhi hotel. It was dark so our first impressions came from the shapes we saw forming under street lights. There seemed to be so few street lights. But in the light cast by one, near a Mogul tomb, we saw poor families sleeping in the open air. The men were in dhotis, the women in simple saris and the children unshod and unclothed or dressed in rags.

Mom was there at the hotel, waiting. Finally, the twins could change into something loose.We wanted to talk about South Africa, but the tiredness of present washed away all thoughts of catching up. I went out onto the veranda of the hotel on my own and breathed in the night air expecting the smell of coconut, chili or roses. Then thinking, unkindly:

"Here I am in India and it doesn't smell of roses it smells of sewage."

There was a problem with the drains which lasted the ten days we were at the hotel.

But the Lodhi hotel was (and still is) famous for its vegetarian Thali. We went down the next evening to eat there. The decor was simple, but pretty and they served us a Thali

Vegetarian Thali

Thali is served on a chrome tray with chrome bowls and a Lhassi. (Dad always ordered his with salt), At first the rest of us ordered sweet. There are several varieties of dahl served: green and orange. Then there is a curried potato dish and a bowl of buttery pees cooked with cubes of chewy fresh paneer. There is cucumber raita, and for desert, srikand - a white sticky milk dessert flavoured with cumin. All to eat with hot chapattis. No knife and fork, of course and eat your food decourously with your right hand. We forgot to order chutneys so the Lodhi hotel saved a few rupees.

"Better a vegetarian Thali than meat." Dr Khilnani would later say. "If you eat meat your body becomes a graveyard for animals."

The next day dad came by with Padma, our long-wheel-base Landrover. And we went house hunting. First to Friendship colony. We looked at large, huge dusty houses, with big flat roofs. Minor diplomats, NGO people and a few government functionaries lived in Friendship Colony. It was a little bit of an expatriate ghetto, and it was expensive. So mom and dad looked elsewhere and they chose Lajpat Nagaar, a house right next to a major city market.

And so we moved into the house in Lajpat Nagaar with two project landrovers parked in the drive. Dad and Mom were Oxfam's Information Officers in India and they would have to travel a lot.

There were fans in every room with a slow to fast setting. I would put all the fans on fast to blow out the dust and a loud propeller gale would start up. The house came with servants. There was Monahar, who was in his late seventies; he had been a cook of a British general, and there was his wife Shanti. They lived at the back in a three story high servants quarters.

There was a small dark Harijan who came to clean the toilets and the rest of the house. Shanti, who was miniature, just did the dusting, and there was the gardener who convinced us to let him fertilise the lawn with fish-meal. and Mom and dad agreed and our lawn stank of fish for weeks, but the grass grew fast and turned dark green.

In the next few days my mother discovered that outside her window, across the driveway the neighbours were operating a clandestine factory to avoid zoning regulations and to avoid taxation. The factory cranked up at about one at night. We never found out what it made but it worked full blast in the small hours. Eventually, the solution was to close the window and install air-conditioning which blocked out the sound.

On the other side, that house was for weddings. While we relaxed on the veranda, after school and work, we could see fairy lights in the branches of the tree, above the wall that separated us. Soon, from afar we would here the jangling sound of wedding music and the deep hum of a truck in first gear. Then the float would grind slowly past in front. The bride and groom were dressed in silks and bangles and headdresses and sat on top. The float was usually covered in white cloth orange and coloured tinsel. Invariably they couple looked rather young and frightened. But the weddings would end quite promptly between 11pm and 12pm.

Across the road from the house was a high yellow wall. We would see people stop and piss against it. It stank. The next morning, outlined against the dawn sky, we saw a building covered in wooden scaffolding. Underneath, in the muddy devastation, were little children and thin women who collected and carried bricks and scoops of mortar to the base of the scaffolding. Other men and women carried the materials upwards.

It was obvious that what I thought or didn't think of India was of no consequence whatsoever.

Work at the University of Kent





























Come out, come out

Come out, come out
let me tell you about it.
I understand
love of the forest
of the "Buidubitsi" *
and of the misplaced grand gestes
of Dacian bravery.

Come out, come out,
let me tell you about it.
I understand (I think)
the birth of Teknic
in Samos and Miletus
and the journey from Crete
to the shrine in Delos
and the fading of mythos;
Apollonian and Dionysian;
the divine view from Patmos,
and the intoxicating air
of a resinous Black Forest.
.
Come out, come out,
let me tell you about it
I understand
Heidegger's baptism
at the source of the Danube
its flows, down to the black sea;
and Arendt's defencelessness.
.
Come out, come out
Let me tell you about it
I understand you better now
because I understand
your being
this time.


(*) Ukrainian river gods. The legend goes that when the Kievian Princes threw the river idols into the water one of them turned his bearded gold face to the surface in the strong current and the people shouted, "Come out, come out"


Heidegger, Life and philosophy 1
Heidegger, Life and Philosophy 2
Heidigger, Life and Philosophy 3

Ages of Life

Euphrates' cities and
Palmyra's streets and you
Forests of columns in the level desert
What are you now?
Your crowns, because
You crossed the boundary
Of breath,
Were taken off
In Heaven's smoke and flame;
But I sit under clouds (each one
Of which has peace) among
The ordered oaks, upon
The deer's heath, and strange
And dead the ghosts of the blessed ones
Appear to me.

By Friedrich Hölderlin


Becoming, or not to become a fascist; now that was the question.

Summer junctions





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"You've got to go dad. Now."

"Wait, I am doing something important, I shout."

I am writing a Kattabatic letter to someone, dredging up smooth relics of the past from dank psychic catacombs that smell of candle wax and old Frankincense, when the phone rings.

"We're in hospital." Says Rose. "I'm afraid Heini is not well. You can hear him I think. Here. Listen."

Heini makes groaning sounds in the background.

"He's speaking in English, I don't know why. You know he never spoke good English and the two nurses are asking him to please speak in German because they don't understand a word. He's also repeating that poem, you remember the one. 'Little moments make an hour, little words a book...' Where did you find that poem by the way."

"It was from an old American English school book - long out of print." I answered. "Here I'll pass you onto Heini.

I overhear:

"Das ist Phil, Heini, Phil."

"Heini we love you I shout."

"Help" moans Heini.

"I am afraid he knocked the phone away Phil. He's not making much sense. I just wanted you to know."

"Yes Rose, a hug for you too we love you."

"Thank you, thank you." She replies politiely.

"Where are Andy and Chris by the way?"

"They are down waterskiing in Golfe Juan with their families. Oh."

Carmen gives me a hug after the phone call.

"I'm sorry dad."

"He's yours too." I say. I'm sorry for you too. Now do you wish you had come to Munich with us?"

"I met him once before." she said.

And then I really do have to run out of the house to take cousin Carmen (15 - from Barcelona) to a place called Bawdsley Manor near Woodbridge in South Suffolk.

I am afraid we'll never make it. I tell Carmen. "40 minutes from New Malden to Liverpool Street no way."

"We will," she said.

And so we rush. Connection after connection. On the train I tell her mischievously.

"Look Carmen, if we make it then that's a good sign and it means you're going to have a great holiday. But if we don't then you weren't. I believe in fate. I believe that every single second is accounted for."

We arrive in Liverpool Street. I buy the wrong ticket, don't know that I have, but as I reach to put it into the machine and run to the train (It wouldn't have opened.) a hand reaches out and opens the turnstile for me.

I am about to make the train with Carmen and then, just as we are about to board, I look at the platform clock and time slows down for precisely one second.

12:29:59 switches to 12:30.

The door bangs behind us. We sit down as the train departs, breathless.

In Ipswich a lady comes up to us. "Are you going to Woodbridge? Yes. Follow me, the train's about to leave." and so we scurry after her, get on the Woodbridge train and, breathless again, sit down.

Soon the train reaches Woodbridge and we get off and take the taxi to Bawdsley manor, passing Sutton Hoo on the way there. I am teaching my niece a narcissistic game she can play with the other teenagers that evening to helpget to know them.

"And so what was in the wooden bowl?"

"Honey," she says "and then I shared it with everyone."

"Aha. That means that pleasure and happiness is important to you and that you like to share it with your family."

"How about your wall?"

"It was transparent and constantly in movement I saw nothing and I heard nothing from the other side."

"That wall signifies death."

Bawdlsey Manor is right by the sea. There's a beach with sand and little sailing boats and motor boats . Very pleasant. The Suffolk folk are there. We drive past an ice cream van and up a hill to the Manor gates. Carmen is nervous now.

"Have fun." We say goodbye. She is so focused on what comes next she doesn't look back as the taxi turns around and drives back down the hill.

"Ice cream?" The taxi driver asks. And we lounge about a little eating ice-cream - mine was mint and vanilla with chocolate chips - and watching the children catching mossy green backed crabs which nip and push at each other in annoyance in colourful buckets.

I stare at the water trying to read a message in the complicated semaphore of sunlight on the ripples.

6.8.09

Reprise

Gloria - reprise

sloes are sour and dark
your sloe-dark eyes absorb more light


I often wish it weren't true
then life would be easy and pleasurable
and not so sour and intense


And you?

are you still that gentle dreamer
is that the scent of Narcissus?
- take no offense

You see
I have never stopped

I am happy that we talked
and that you say you never stopped


* * *

5.8.09

12th night in the open air at Ham House












































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"Let me not to the marriage of true minds
Admit impediments. Love is not love
Which alters when it alteration finds,
Or bends with the remover to remove:
O, no! it is an ever-fixed mark,
That looks on tempests and is never shaken;
It is the star to every wandering bark,
Whose worth’s unknown, although his height be taken.
Love ’s not Time’s fool, though rosy lips and cheeks
Within his bending sickle’s compass come;
Love alters not with his brief hours and weeks,
But bears it out even to the edge of doom.
If this be error, and upon me prov’d,
I never writ, nor no man ever lov’d."

William Shakespeare.

We went to see 12th night in the open air at Ham House last Sunday and I have a few pictures I will post.

Play list 3: Southern Anatolian music

South East Anatolia

Playlist of traditional Southern Anatolian - including Zaza - music.

Kurdish dance music: şemmamme

4.8.09

Progreso: My Journey to the end of the world

If your so prescient, then dance on this beach!


For most of the journey I was slap up against a secretary from Mexico City. She phoned me later from a hotel room. “Hello, remember me?” “Yeah, I remember you.”

It was a cramped 36 hour drive. We walked, and slowly unfolding, headed towards the cheap hotel in the dark. It was 2 am. We could hear the leaves rustle, but couldn't see trees. There was a taco shop on the way. Three wide-awake people inside.

They prepared our tacos, Merida style with Cochinita pibil.


















http://www.flickr.com/photos/rickpoon/2628699757/


Cochinita Pibil

First, fatty pork is marinated in achiote and dissolved in orange juice. Achiote is a red ochre paste made from a type of berry native to the Yucatan. The pork is then baked slowly in banana leaves . The wrap is placed in a clay pot in the oven or in a pressure cooker. It’s ready in an hour and a half or so. When the pork is cool, practiced fingers shred the meat into its fibres and the fibres soak up the juice and oil. Then the cochinita is spooned onto hot tortillas.

"Some chili sauce, please." They look at me. "It’s very hot." "I know." They pass me the bowl.

Basic Salsa, Yucatan style

Habanero slices and chopped red onion rings soaking in sour orange - the same orange that grows on the trees along the Merida avenues.

* * *





















http://blog.flyingdiary.com/2007/01/07/sweatin-to-the-chichen-itza.aspx

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The following morning we took a bus to Chichen Itza for the summer solstice. The journey was much shorter. We see the observatory, the Caracol, wander round the site, admire the snake heads at the bottom of the flight of steps, climb to the top.

I stand at the top. Look down at the people below. A voice calls out over the loudhailer system.

"It is time. Will everyone please come off the monuments."

I wait a minute. About fifty unfriendly white faces look up at me impatiently from the very base of El Castillo. Most of them look like Americans. But, staring at me most unpleasantly, is one Mexican-American. I am the last person on the pyramid, so I quickly go down before the ceremony begins.

A few thousand people are at the base. My companion and I meet up and decide to stand at the fringe of the crowd. A hundred gueros start to circle the pyramid ceremoniously, setting up eddies.

The glossy, hamburger-fed Mexican-American takes off his coat and climbs up the pyramid as the equinox approaches. He is dressed like a Mayan - or what he believes to be a Mayan. He performs an ersatz dance on one of the ledges. At the base, voices in English call out in grating accents. The faux Mayan man moans - hums like a Sioux. Now a murmuring of irritation spreads through the Yucatan crowd full of the true descendants of the Mayans themselves.

The loudspeaker makes another announcement:

"Will the tourists who are on and near the pyramid kindly show some respect for our culture and stop what they are doing, right now."

The fraudulent and troublesome priest does another little jig and then we are rid of him. He comes off the monument to the sound of boos.

We watch the show. Sure enough the sun, when it shines down at midday, casts the shadow of the steps in the figure of a serpent's body. The shadow grows until it reaches the Snake heads at the base of the pyramid.

Finally even the New Age fantasists shut up. The sun has hushed the crowd.

I watch carefully, but feel no spiritual uplift. All I see is stone, light, shade and people.

The next day my travelling companion goes on a side trip and so I decide to go to on my own jaunt to the nearest beach. I go to Progreso, a small fishing town by the sea, not far from Merida.
Sadly, it was more of nothing. The beach was broad, so I walked along it. The waves were rough, so I didn’t swim among them. The sand was grey and heaped into mounds. A few battered fishing boats had been hauled up out of the water. There were piles of rotted seaweed.

That’s all there was. And so after a couple of hours I went back to Merida.

.
Later, in the library of the Anglo Mexican Cultural Institute I looked up Progreso to find that it shared a beach with another town; Chixulub, - the exact site of the K-T extinction.






Now perhaps I should have asked some of the fatuous 2012 crowd to come along with me to Progreso and do their end of days shimmy along the grey Progreso beach - the real epicentre of the last end of times.

Bildungsromans for the zeitgeist

For teenagers, GCSE, BTEC, A-level and International Baccalaureate results are days away and fate stands by, snickering, with a sharp pair of scissors in its hands. Later on this summer after they get their results, these teenagers may have cause for reflection. They might even consider turning to literature for consolation or counsel. But what books should they read?

Of course they could always plump for Great Expectations, The Bell Jar, The Catcher in the Rye or A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man. Some fiction hits the sweet spot of every generation. But isn't most coming of age fiction friable? Doesn't its relevance fade? Obama may be the first mixed-race US president, but how many teenagers will read James Baldwin's Go Tell It on the Mountain?

My generation flipped through novels without the help of colour-coded guidance from publishers and bookstores. Even so, we quickly found our way. The 70s zeitgeist spoke through a megaphone. We read Catch-22 and Slaughterhouse-Five because the Vietnam war was senseless; we read Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas because taking drugs was counter-culture and rebellious; we read Siddhartha because Oriental religions still promised answers; we read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance because the most influential post-hippy truism was that the only truth worth a bean was the truth inside you. Promiscuity was liberating, so we read about zipless fucks in Erica Jong's Fear of Flying. But we only really read Portnoy's Complaint to find out exactly what the boy did to the liver.

Of course young people read silly books for silly reasons. A sloe-eyed Serbian Mona Lisa suggested that I read those interminable Germans, Hesse and Mann, and so I did. I read The Glass Bead Game and The Magic Mountain and I wish I hadn't. When sweetly pretentious friends quoted strophes like "I should have been a pair of ragged claws / Scuttling across the floors of silent seas", instead of guffawing, I read The Lovesong of J Alfred Prufrock and copied them.

When teenagers adopt an adult classic they soon trash it. It soon loses its gravitas and clout and becomes cult fiction. Much coming of age fiction is suspect, isn't it? Woody Allen famously said: "If I had to live my life again, I'd do everything the same, except that I wouldn't see The Magus", and I feel the same way about John Fowles's book. The memory of reading and enjoying Richard Bach's maple syrup Jonathan Livingston Seagull can also make me cringe in embarrassment.

For understanding to bloom and the world to make sense to them, the young should not merely read literature that reflects on their immediate concerns, but books which reflect the zeitgeist, as ours did. They should read around the filibustering of religious narratives in the face of evolution, on the theme of the death of the exotic, about fabulous financial foxes and climate change catastrophe.

Each generation has its own coming of age literature. What is this new generation reading?



Suggestions culled from the Guardian books blog:

Trainspotting, Remainder, On the road, 'A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius', Zeitgeist, The Wasp Factory, The Trial, The Getaway, Madamme Bovary, The Colour of Magic, Wuthering Heights, Dracula, Frankenstein, 1984, Brave New World, Death of a Salesman, The Colour Purple, Jane Eyre, The Third Policeman, The Restraint of Beasts, Candide, The Ragged Trousered Philanthropist, The Communist Manifesto, A Room with a View, Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit, The Secret Life of Bees, Hemingway's stories, Collected Dorothy Parker, The Death of St. Narcissus, Terry Pratchett - Discworld, Book's Hard Boiled Wonderland, The End of the World, Norwegian Wood, Hitch-Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy, A Prayer for Owen Meany, The Commitments, Homage to Catalonia, Lolita, The Time Traveller's Wife, How I Live Now, The Graveyard Book, The Great Gatsby, On The Black Hill, The Master and The Margarita...

Of course in every country the list will be different.

3.8.09

Play list 2: Mexican, Colombian

Quien Pompo, Chico Che

Ando Buscando un Cabron

La Negra Tomasa, Caifanes

Nada Personal, Manzanero

El Aventurero, Pedro Fernandez

La Zenaida, Armando Hernadez

Suggested exercises for belief weaklings

Following on from my conversation with my friend and fellow blogger @Wordy. I'd like to pose the question: Are we handicapped by our inability to believe in truth, handicapped by herd instinct, peer pressure and the media? Why is so difficult to believe in some phenomena for which there is evidence. Some people don't even believe AIDs exists but label it an overall deterioration of the immune system.

Sez @Wordy, possibly proving my point.

Climate change? Pollution and noxious emissions of various sorts are clearly playing a large part, but I don't know that anyone is in a position to say with absolute certainty what proportion of the change is man-made rather than cyclical (i.e., naturally occurring).

But then Wordy goes on to say we have to do something about climate change, no matter what.


It would seem that many of us have weak belief muscles. Few believed that house prices would fall and that there would be a financial crisis, but they did and it did. Not enough people believe and then act on the belief that human beings have caused global warming, and yet global warming is a reality.

The ability to believe tangible oncoming catastrophe is a very useful one for those who would like to survive catastrophe. One day, it’s possible, an undetected meteorite or comet might hit the earth and wipe out all human life on it including the Guardian. Is this why the Guardian published a piece by Lembit Öpik calling for a space defence system. Most of us aren’t that worried, but the danger is real.

Some people go further. Gary McKinnon, who has lost his case will now probably be extradited to the USA to serve a 60 year life term in a US jail for believing in the testimony of the 400 apparently highly reliable witnesses in project Disclosure and acting on that belief. After hacking into hundreds of US NASA and US military PCs he proved, to his own satisfaction at least, that UFOs and aliens exist and that there really is a source of cheap, clean energy being hidden from the general public by the military industrial complex. Gary McKinnon is a Charles Atlas when it comes to belief.

But how good are you at believing seemingly impossible things?

Alice laughed: "There's no use trying," she said; "one can't believe impossible things.""I daresay you haven't had much practice," said the Queen. "When I was younger, I always did it for half an hour a day. Why, sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast."

Alice in Wonderland.

Consider that in some cases your survival or at least your financial security might depend on it. I am reading the war letters of my family. My grandfather, an Austrian Jew, believed that the Nazi’s would persecute the Jews and that war would break out so he took a boat from Dover to Lorenzo Marques two months before the war the trouble really started. His sister did not, returned to Paris from London and was picked up off the streets and sent to Drancy (a French internment and later concentration camp for Jews) and then on to Auschwitz in shipment 27 on 02/09/1942, where she was gassed on arrival.

There is a logical fallacy whereby something terrible (or perhaps wonderful) cannot be true or will not happen merely because it has not happened before in human memory – or perhaps because we have no experience of it. It only takes one incident to demonstrate that that terrible thing can indeed happen and will.

Here are some exercises I suggest for belief weaklings.

Weeks 1 - 2: Consider the possibility that IFOs might exist.
Weeks 3 - 4: Entertain the belief that IFOs might exist.
Weeks 5 - 6: Take into consideration that IFOs might exist.
Weeks 7 - 8: Come to terms with the possibility that IFOs exist.
Weeks 9 - 10: Take a little leap of faith: For you IFOs now exist.

2.8.09

Clubbing in Mogadiscio

Haji, a thin, bearded watchman in his 80s, rests. His bed is carefully placed within the solid shadow cast by broad glossy green leaves - between a tree trunk and a high wall.


People who want to drive in or out of the compound toot their horn in front of the gates and then they must wait.

Haji lies still. Is he alive?

...
.
Yes. Thank God. He stirs; from the shadows one leg swings out, another follows. Haji gets off his bed and shuffles towards the doors. Reaching the doors, his arms shaking, he extracts a key out from between the folds of his robe. Comically, he tries to fumble the key into the lock - scrapes metal.

He doesn't allows anyone to help him. If you are in a desperate hurry, then too bad. You do as my mother did:

Wait. Bite your lip. Grit your teeth. Stamp your feet. Give the wheel a thump. Say: "Jesus! Now I am really going to be late."

Haji finds the lock, turns it open, swings each panel of the palace gate open.

Call out: "Thank you Haji" and be careful not to knock him over as revving, you and your car bolt out into the sunshine. Haji smiles and waves you away. Haji, with a trembling panga raised above his head, is a fearsome sight.

It was a smooth drive down to the disused beach house set aside as the UN beach club. The buildings and walls on the way are painted white and shine painfully. There isn't much traffic. On the left is the ocean. The sea wall lining the Mogadiscio promenade has square posts set into it at intervals, and crumbling fasci symbols are moulded onto them in plaster.

"They should keep those fasci symbols," says dad in passing, "...to help them remember the history of the Italian occupation."

* * *

There were few places to go in Mogadiscio and so, in a spirit of communal solidarity, Dad had decided to repair the beach house, to condition it and help make it into a social centre for the hard working NGO staff. The son of a good hotelier, one of his sayings was: 'Maintenance is next to Godliness'. He set about repairing the building.

Every day, whenever he could, he went down to the old Italian house above the beach to fix it up. When I arrived he asked me if I would like to help and so we set about re-plastering the pillars that held up the roof of the veranda and began repainting it. The pillars were not smoothly plastered, but they were evenly plastered. The colour dad chose was a restful shade of mocha cream - I don't think there was really much of a choice.

I had to leave to go back to study for my language degree, but the next time I visited I mentioned the club.

Dad explained.

"It was quite nice for a while" he said. Everyone was very pleased. "We went from time to time for about a month and sat on the veranda, drinking cool drinks, relaxing and enjoying the view.
.
"Once, though, about a month ago, we were relaxing, looking at the children playing in the surf, when one of the boys screamed. We thought it was just a jellyfish or a sea urchin, but we all saw the water turn red." "It was shocking how quickly it changed colour." added mom.
.
"In any event," said dad, "a tiger shark had taken a big bite out of the boy's calf. He was put into someone's car and rushed to hospital. We don't know if he lived. Everyone was quite shaken by the experience and, for a while, no-one went down to the club."
.
"It was the Russians fault," said mom. "They made a bloody great hole in the reef to let their submarines through and let the sharks in."
.
"The sharks are attracted inshore by the waste which pours into the sea from the government slaughterhouse further up the coast, " Said dad.

"Let's go see it, never mind all that," I said.
.
"Well, I am afraid it's not that nice any more." said dad. "I cajoled the two club watchmen into helping me, but after the incident with the shark and the boy and there was a lull and people stopped going.
.
"Then I heard through the grapevine that late at night someone was organising big drunken parties there. The watchmen might have had something to do with it. The landlord was probably getting a kickback and so there was nothing we could do to stop it. I went to the club then and saw some shady characters hanging around and saw several women who looked like prostitutes. I went to have a word with the landlord, but he must have cut a deal. He didn't want to hear my objections."
.
"They obviously liked what you did to the place, dad." I said. That's why they moved in.
.
After ten years working for the ILO and commuting back and forth to refugee camps in Hargeisa, mom left for another assignment in Harare. Dad ended his contract with the UNDP too, in order to follow mom. But he stayed behind to pack everything up, organise the move and settle their accounts. He then also left. Bodies of the victims of the clan fighting were just beginning to wash up on shore.

A year on, in their house in Harare I asked Dad. "Whatever happened to the UN beach club in the end."
.
"Sad." he said. "But the last I heard of it was that it was taken over by a local Somali warlord." "Of course we have no idea what happened to Haji. But do you remember Abdi Osman," asked dad. "Mom's Somali assistant?"
.
"Yes, of course. That pipe smoking guy."
.
"Well, we heard from friends that he was stopped in the streets by armed men. They took him out of the car and they shot him."