Elysian Fields, Tony, Eve, Lisa and the Peugeot at picnic by the fig tree in Little Serengeti
The Peugeot 504 is a legend in Africa. The first models were produced in France in 1968. The same 504 is still coming brand new off production lines in Kenya and Nigeria 38 years later. This is the largest production run of any car, under its own name,* in history.
The sedan has won many victories and top places in African motor rallies, from the Paris-Dakar to the East African Safari.
The 504 station wagon/estate, the model displayed here, has a heroic and colourful history as a taxi, in and between cities, all over Africa.**
For more than four decades, the 504 and its predecessor, the 404, have been part of the magic of East Africa. The sight of them bombing along miles of straight road and winding up and down passes has been so much part of the breathtaking scenery. They have done the epic runs, some of the world’s loveliest and most exciting, from Nairobi in all directions around East Africa
– following the road route alongside the “Lunatic Railway”, past Lake Victoria to Kampala;
– to the coast, through “man-eaters of Tsavo” wildlife country, down to Mombasa;
– south through Masailand, into Tanzania and past Kilimanjaro.
– And, as the famous RVP, the Rift Valley Peugeot, up north into the escarpment land, dense with coffee, bananas and mealies, down, down to the valley floor, past the volcanic hills, the vast cattle ranches, past Lake Naivasha and the flamingoes of Lake Nakuru, up again into the wheat-covered highlands, past Mount Kenya, and on past Samburu and into the arid plains of the northeast where Somali, Boran and Rendille nomads drive their cattle and camels (a region now suffering perhaps its worst-ever drought and famine).
In Zimbabwe, the 504 station wagon is best known as the “ET”, the Emergency Taxi. There, also for decades, in and between towns, the ET was a valued service to people having otherwise to walk long distances. This was in a country short of cars and buses because the government through the 1980s followed a resolute but difficult policy of limiting imports to save foreign exchange, some to spend on schools and hospitals, in those idealistic days. So when an ET came along a Harare or Bulawayo street people piled in, up to 12 or 13 to a vehicle, with ladies sitting in local style with legs stretched straight out, along the back. The ET is so prized that even today, the sight of this old yellow station wagon driving in South Africa has people smiling, waving and calling out:
“D’you want to sell?”
“No sorry, but are you Zimbabwean?”
Of course: “I want it for a taxi” or “I have a large family”.
West Africa – not least the huge spread of Francophone West and Central African countries – is still criss-crossed by the Peugeot 504. The station wagon is the vehicle most commonly and widely used as the intercity bush taxi, the famous “Taxi Brousse”. The Peugeot plant in Nigeria still produces up to 3,000 of the 504s a year.
A visitor to Madagascar, off Africa’s east coast, a couple of years ago described how ninety percent of the “taxis brousses” are still the 504 station wagons “crammed with passengers, well overloaded on the home made roof racks”.
Many a 504 has ended up a near wreck, but still going, at the finishing line of the Paris Dakar Rally – even the station wagon has done the course.
The 504 sedan was the car of choice of the East African Safari rally winner Bert Shankland, the man they called the Tanzanian hero, in the 1960s and 1970s. At its height, the Safari, the world’s most historic rally, covered 4,000 kms of remote and beautiful back roads around Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania, over nine days, and attracted some of the world’s most famous drivers.
In its almost 40 years, the 504 has become an icon, in Africa and beyond, with loving fans in France and elsewhere running dedicated websites*** and Peugeot 504 clubs. After it ceased production in Europe in 1983, it continued not only in Nigeria and Kenya, but until 1998, in Argentina. It has appeared on stamps in several Arab countries. The 504 has been part of San Francisco’s taxi fleet – and it has been in the ranks among New York’s Yellow Cabs. It has been sighted over the years in many corners of the US.
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Now, the writer and owner of this car has another 504 project planned: for a 70-year-old retired journalist and a veteran UN development worker in Africa to drive it from Nelspruit to Addis Ababa, via Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania and Kenya, doing no more than 300 kms a day, using whatever time it takes. And the vehicle is not to be specially upgraded or equipped, beyond an extra spare tyre or so.
Any sponsors? All it needs is fixing the front bushes and ball joints, and some backing with security arrangements and funding in an emergency. It would be a dream come true, for these two to revisit the countries, the projects and the people they have known and loved through some decades of their own working life…We are going to do it anyway…
Tony and Eve Hall
_______________________________________
* The old 1956 Morris Oxford production line, for instance, was continued in India for even longer, but made and sold under its Indian name, the Ambassador.
** The vehicle on show here, a 1979 model, has taken family holiday journeys all over Southern Africa. It is still on the road with original engine and working parts, as a family and farm runabout, with occasional cargo runs, and trips for hordes of grandchildren to the Kruger Park and other Lowveld and Escarpment getaways. With its powerful engine and robust suspension, it sometimes takes domestic employees’ families and pulls a heavily loaded trailer along rough back roads and up steep hills in Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces.
The original owners, Wilf and Doreen Nussey, sold it after 21 years, to Tony and Eve Hall in 1998.
*** Some of the general information, and about the 504 in West Africa, comes from browsing websites, particularly of the French enthusiast, jeff@504.org -- thanks to him! The rest is from personal knowledge and experience.
Any sponsors? All it needs is fixing the front bushes and ball joints, and some backing with security arrangements and funding in an emergency. It would be a dream come true, for these two to revisit the countries, the projects and the people they have known and loved through some decades of their own working life…We are going to do it anyway…
ROUTE IN DETAIL
Matumi – Sabie – Graskop – BLYDE RESERVE – Strydom tunnel – MAD DOGZ B&B – Tzaneen – side road and back to DUIWELSKLOOF – R71 to *P’burg/Polokwane - N11 to Martin’s Drift border 180k) – AFTER BORDER – Selebi Pik (100k) – Serule (50k) – FRANCISTOWN (92k) – NATA (elephants…) –dead straight road to KASANE/CHOBE LODGE – Kasungula border (half-hourly ferry? closed on Sundays?) up to 4 hrs delay on ferry border, cars about R130
Botswana (from notes of August 2000)
General: Fire is a major hazard during late August and Sept, end of dry season.
Roads are generally in good condition
Passsports must not expire within 6 months of the visit and have at least three blank pages.
Acquire special insurance for car covering all countries. Make sure to ask for local insurance and road tax
Give each border at least one hour
Carry two red (yellow) warning triangles
Don’t use smaller old filling stations, risk of dirty fuel. Keep 20l of petrol (declare it at SA border).
Visa better than Master
Camping sites, can be recommended, all with warm water showers, no need to book, Martins Drift, Nata Lodge, Toro Lodge at Kasane, Maramba Lodge at Livingstone
Recommend 2000 pulas per week minimum.
Christiaan Mostert: Mostert@lantic.net (journey done in July 2004)
Own toilet paper
Visa better than Master in Bots, Amex no good
Pprus (or P’burg?) to border is 180k/2 hrs, refill on Botswana side of the border – to Sel-Pik on T4 is 138k – Ftown is 145k – Nata is 180k<200k – Kazangula B is 298k/Kasane 325k – to Livingstone after border is 69k… he used 200+ litres of fuel …maybe 7kms per litre (do a checktest)
Grobler’s Brug/Martin’s Drift border crossing from SA. 8 am, crossing the Limpopo. Road is fine to Sel Pik, took them 2 hours.
Ftown to Nata is 200k. 10k before Nata is Natalodge Nigel Ashby 09 267 61 1260 natalodge@info.bw for self-catering, tel. 267 6112120 fax: …260.
Much reach Nata by 330 pm, covered with elephants after dusk. At Nata, fill up north of the town. – road to Kasane is dead straight, drive north from Nata to Kaz, as you come down the hill into Kaz, you turn left asnd go *km and more to far end of Kasane town, for Chobe Safari Lodge
At Kasane is Chobe Safari Lodge 09 267 65 0300
From AA mag article on Condor to Lusaka*
(was? a terrible road to) LIVINGSTONE – bad and desolate road (?) to CHOMA – LUSAKA…
Livingstone – Choma, 187k, Kozo Lodge in Choma, rates April 06: K260 per night incl bkfst, tel/fx: 260 3 220 347. mobile: 260 97 468975 kozo@kozolodge.co.zm to – Lusaka 300 k.
Zambia prefers $ to Rands
Lusaka to Lilongwe is 615km
One (rally) report from May
Lusaka, Barn Motel – Chongwe, fill up, then very few towns – Rufunsa – Nyimba (potholes after it) – Petauke, Brother Willy’s Motel – Chipata, Mama Rula’s B&B or Luangwa House Hotel…Mfuwe 2.5 hrs Kawaza village tourism project – Lilongwe
Fuel in Malawi half the price of Zambia (still true?)
Liv to Lus described more positively and in useful detail from a bikers guide:
South from Lusaka to Livingstone the roads are also good, but there are some fairly hilly stretches. This route is served, however, with “fast food” stops and several villages with guest houses reflecting the fact that it is on the main tourist trail. There may still be a need (for bikers) to camp in the bush as villages are not evenly spaced. Bush camping undetected can be tricky here, but the consequences if you are detected are no more than a little friendly curiosity. (For our route, read the following in reverse order…) Guest houses can be found in Kafue (40km from Lusaka), Mazabuka (110km from Kafue), Monze (65km from Mazabuka), Pemba (around 30km from Monze), Choma (75 km from Pemba), Kalomo (65km from Choma), and Zimba (around 45km from Kalomo). Livingstone is then only 80km from Zimba. Curiously, guest houses along this stretch of road are considerably more expensive than elsewhere in Zambia. (…thus: Livingstone – Zimba (80k) – Kalomo (45k) – Choma (65k) – Pemba (75k) – Monze (30k) – Mazubuka (65k) – Kafue (110k) – Lusaka (40k)
[A number of detours from the main road towards Lake Kariba are possible, though the roads are generally extremely sandy. The road to the Zimbabwe border forks off the Livingstone road some 10km south from Kafue.]
[ATMs in Lusaka and Livingstone. Zambia’s best route in Livingstone-Lusaka-Malawi…lack of accommodatioin options…Choma halfway between Liv and Lus…even on main routes services can be surprisingly scarce for travellers…need to camp (for cyclists)…good tent…maybe in schools]
East from Lusaka (towards Malawi)
East from Lusaka takes you through one of Zambia’s more mountainous regions. Between the Luangwa River and Nyimba there are some not-insignificant climbs, but some great views to compensate. Accommodation is extremely limited, with a cheap hotel in Kacholola (296km from Lusaka, on way to Malawi) and guest houses in Nyimba (50km from Kacholola) before the first town of Petauke (60km from Nyimba).
The Luangwa Valley
From Petauke the main road continues to Chipata (around 130km from Petauke) and then the Malawian border, but branching off left here and heading towards Mfue (193km from Petauke) and South Luangwa National Park is highly recommended. This is where the cycling gets seriously hard and a mountain bike or expedition touring bike is essential. The road starts off from Petauke near perfect for a bicycle, but deteriorates after 65km. A brief stretch of treacherous deep sand is followed by a wheel crunching descent into the Luangwa valley. The road eventually meets up with the Luangwa River and follows it as far as Mfue. South Luangwa NP is just across the river so expect to see plenty of wildlife. Elephants are abundant here, but luckily for the cyclist there are plenty of trees to hide behind. Between Petauke and Mfue bush camping will be necessary. It’s better to spend a night in the bush before the road meets up with river and the elephants! During or soon after the rains the road from Petauke to Mfue could pose problems as there are numerous rivers and no bridges.
Flatdogs Lodge near Mfue is the recommended accommodation option. Camping is cheap, food is expensive, but excellent, and hippos and elephants often wander through the campsite. The Lodge is just on the edge of South Luangwa National Park and runs inexpensive safaris and walking safaris into the park. South Luangwa National Park is arguably the best park for wildlife viewing in all of Africa and has yet to become overrun by tourists. Also, since the lodge runs its own fleet of safari vehicles they have a well-equipped workshop.
Heading north from Mfue and then through a part of South Luangwa National Park towards Lundazi (around 240km from Mfue) the roads become more like bike tracks. Unfortunately there are many of them and none are marked on maps so route finding here is a combination of guess work and asking the locals. You probably will make it through, but not necessarily by the most direct route. Tagging along with local cyclists can be useful as there are stretches that are unsafe to travel alone at certain times of the day on account of the wildlife. There are no guest houses until Lundazi, 3 days cycle away. Stops are possible in Lukusuzi (84km from Mfue) and Chitungulu (around 120km from Mfue), where camping or nights at schools are an option. If you are near the Luangwa River camping alone in the bush is not recommended. It is possible to follow the river as far as Chama instead of heading for Lundazi. However, Lundazi is a good stop to stock up on supplies as it’s the last significant town or village until Isoka. Between Chitungulu and Lundazi beware – lions are periodically spotted. Take care when bush camping. Also beware of snakes in this area, including puff adders which can often be seen lying on the roads in the mornings and the much-feared green mamba. The road from Mfue to Lundazi again could pose problems during and soon after the rains.
North from Lundazi is relatively easy for around 100km. Thereafter some agricultural operations have destroyed the road. The plus side of the farming is that camping sites are easy to find. Soon after the road forks for Chama, there is a 100km plus stretch infested with tsetse flies. They are out in force in July, but may be less of an issue at other times of year. There is little that can be done other than gritting your teeth, frantically swatting and cycling like hell. Muyombe is around 125km from Lundazi. Camping in the tsetse zone is not really an option so reaching Muyombe is essential. A guest house and some cheap Malawian beer await you in Muyombe.
From Muyombe there are some serious hills to climb before reaching the next village at Kampumbu – some will take every last bit of your strength. Its 110km from Muyombe to Kampumbu, but since there’s no guest house in Kampumbu there’s little reason to aim for it. From Kampumbu to Isoka is only 57km. There’s a nasty little hill just before the road joins the main road, but fear not as Isoka is a superb little town and well worth the effort. Accommodation is cheap; food is cheap and in rich supply compared with the Luangwa valley, and it’s a nice place to relax and recharge for a day or two.
(need details onward to Malawi border…)
Malawi
Have comprehensive insurance policy which covers you for repatration to home country
[12m pop dial 265 kwacha 125 to $ visa and master accepted by larger hotels and some ATMs people take rand $ and £ city beds from $13]
[Weather:
Malawi:cool mid-May to mid-August, hot mid-August to November, rainy Nov-Apr. Kenya: rainy March-May and November. Rift Valley can be visited all year …… Vic Falls: coolest between June and July, other times very hot. Rains Feb and March, driest in Nov and Dec.]
Main roads in Malawi are surprisingly good, and travel times should be reasonable
Excellent road at border, from Chichinji – Lilongwe (120k) – then Mzuzu (5 hrs) – Karonga (6 hrs) surrounded by vast mountains – Songwe River Bridge border (6-6pm)
Side journeys: Nkhata Bay, 50 k east of Mzuzu. Vwaza Marsh Reserve, west of north road.
Tanzania
Get visas before leaving SA, because Songwe border is too small (and remember return visa – in Kenya or SA?)
Songwe bridge border to Mbeya is a ‘thoroughly great ride’, hilly and dramatic. One of the worlds greatest ascents is 60k, ending 30k before Mbeya
East from Lusaka
East from Lusaka takes you through one of Zambia’s more mountainous regions. Between the Luangwa River and Nyimba there are some not-insignificant climbs, but some great views to compensate. Accommodation is extremely limited, with a cheap hotel in Kacholola (296km from Lusaka) and guest houses in Nyimba (50km from Kacholola) before the first town of Petauke (60km from Nyimba).
The Luangwa Valley
From Petauke the main road continues to Chipata (around 130km from Petauke) and then the Malawian border, but branching off left here and heading towards Mfue (193km from Petauke) and South Luangwa National Park is highly recommended. This is where the cycling gets seriously hard and a mountain bike or expedition touring bike is essential. The road starts off from Petauke near perfect for a bicycle, but deteriorates after 65km. A brief stretch of treacherous deep sand is followed by a wheel crunching descent into the Luangwa valley. The road eventually meets up with the Luangwa River and follows it as far as Mfue. South Luangwa NP is just across the river so expect to see plenty of wildlife. Elephants are abundant here, but luckily for the cyclist there are plenty of trees to hide behind. Between Petauke and Mfue bush camping will be necessary. It’s better to spend a night in the bush before the road meets up with river and the elephants! During or soon after the rains the road from Petauke to Mfue could pose problems as there are numerous rivers and no bridges.
Flatdogs Lodge near Mfue is the recommended accommodation option. Camping is cheap, food is expensive, but excellent, and hippos and elephants often wander through the campsite. The Lodge is just on the edge of South Luangwa National Park and runs inexpensive safaris and walking safaris into the park. South Luangwa National Park is arguably the best park for wildlife viewing in all of Africa and has yet to become overrun by tourists. Also, since the lodge runs its own fleet of safari vehicles they have a well-equipped workshop.
Heading north from Mfue and then through a part of South Luangwa National Park towards Lundazi (around 240km from Mfue) the roads become more like bike tracks. Unfortunately there are many of them and none are marked on maps so route finding here is a combination of guess work and asking the locals. You probably will make it through, but not necessarily by the most direct route. Tagging along with local cyclists can be useful as there are stretches that are unsafe to travel alone at certain times of the day on account of the wildlife. There are no guest houses until Lundazi, 3 days cycle away. Stops are possible in Lukusuzi (84km from Mfue) and Chitungulu (around 120km from Mfue), where camping or nights at schools are an option. If you are near the Luangwa River camping alone in the bush is not recommended. It is possible to follow the river as far as Chama instead of heading for Lundazi. However, Lundazi is a good stop to stock up on supplies as it’s the last significant town or village until Isoka. Between Chitungulu and Lundazi beware – lions are periodically spotted. Take care when bush camping. Also beware of snakes in this area, including puff adders which can often be seen lying on the roads in the mornings and the much-feared green mamba. The road from Mfue to Lundazi again could pose problems during and soon after the rains.
North from Lundazi is relatively easy for around 100km. Thereafter some agricultural operations have destroyed the road. The plus side of the farming is that camping sites are easy to find. Soon after the road forks for Chama, there is a 100km plus stretch infested with tsetse flies. They are out in force in July, but may be less of an issue at other times of year. There is little that can be done other than gritting your teeth, frantically swatting and cycling like hell. Muyombe is around 125km from Lundazi. Camping in the tsetse zone is not really an option so reaching Muyombe is essential. A guest house and some cheap Malawian beer await you in Muyombe.
From Muyombe there are some serious hills to climb before reaching the next village at Kampumbu – some will take every last bit of your strength. Its 110km from Muyombe to Kampumbu, but since there’s no guest house in Kampumbu there’s little reason to aim for it. From Kampumbu to Isoka is only 57km. There’s a nasty little hill just before the road joins the main road, but fear not as Isoka is a superb little town and well worth the effort. Accommodation is cheap; food is cheap and in rich supply compared with the Luangwa valley, and it’s a nice place to relax and recharge for a day or two.
Tony and Eve Hall
_______________________________________
* The old 1956 Morris Oxford production line, for instance, was continued in India for even longer, but made and sold under its Indian name, the Ambassador.
** The vehicle on show here, a 1979 model, has taken family holiday journeys all over Southern Africa. It is still on the road with original engine and working parts, as a family and farm runabout, with occasional cargo runs, and trips for hordes of grandchildren to the Kruger Park and other Lowveld and Escarpment getaways. With its powerful engine and robust suspension, it sometimes takes domestic employees’ families and pulls a heavily loaded trailer along rough back roads and up steep hills in Mpumalanga and Limpopo provinces.
The original owners, Wilf and Doreen Nussey, sold it after 21 years, to Tony and Eve Hall in 1998.
*** Some of the general information, and about the 504 in West Africa, comes from browsing websites, particularly of the French enthusiast, jeff@504.org -- thanks to him! The rest is from personal knowledge and experience.
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